Photo: Buffon, Georges Louis Leclerc; Cuvier, Georges; Valenciennes (Public domain) — via Wikimedia Commons
Blue Gourami (Trichopodus trichopterus)
A bold, labyrinth-breathing centerpiece that thrives in almost any tap water — just watch the males: they will claim the whole upper tank as their own.
Will it live with a Blue Gourami?
We compare each fish against your blue gourami on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Agassiz's Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Agassiz's Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Banjo Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Bearded Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Black Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Blood Red Tiger Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6 cm · Medium care · 24–29 °C (75–84 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Bolivian Ram✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Bristlenose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 23–30 °C (73–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Burmese Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Clown Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Corydoras Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Corydoras Catfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Giant Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Pantanal Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–27 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Pantanal Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Peppered Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Peppered Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Porthole Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Spotfin Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Spotfin Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Spotted Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Rubbernose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Sterbai Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Sterbai Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Striped Eel Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Zebra Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Hard care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 26–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Angelfish⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Banded Gourami⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 12 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Blue Gourami and Banded Gourami are both labyrinth fish and often treat each other as rivals — give a large, broken-up tank and be ready to separate them.
- Blue Flash Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blue Gourami and Blue Flash Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Calvus Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 14 cm · Medium care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Cupid Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–29 °C (75–84 °F)
- Blue Gourami and Cupid Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Giant Betta⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blue Gourami is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Giant Betta — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Blue Gourami and Giant Betta are both labyrinth fish and often treat each other as rivals — give a large, broken-up tank and be ready to separate them.
- Mascara Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Blue Gourami and Mascara Barb are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add mascara barb in a group to spread the pressure.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Mascara Barb in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Medusa Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Pearl Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blue Gourami and Pearl Gourami are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add pearl gourami in a group to spread the pressure.
- Blue Gourami and Pearl Gourami are both labyrinth fish and often treat each other as rivals — give a large, broken-up tank and be ready to separate them.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Pictus Catfish⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 12 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Polka-dot Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 13 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Powder Blue Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Powder Blue Cichlid is a notorious fin-nipper — even though Blue Gourami is larger, an active shoal will harass its trailing fins. Only safe in a full group of 6+ with plenty of cover.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~170 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Powder Blue Cichlid in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Rainbow Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~130 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Rubber Lip Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Swordtail⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- T-bar Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 12 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Blue Gourami and Alligator Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Alligator Gar (250 cm) is big enough to swallow the 13 cm Blue Gourami whole.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blue Gourami and Clown Knifefish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Blue Gourami is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory clown knifefish — it will be eaten.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blue Gourami is bite-sized to a 100 cm predatory fire eel — it will be eaten.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Koi (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 13 cm Blue Gourami whole.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Blue Gourami and Redtail Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (120 vs 13 cm): Redtail Catfish will treat Blue Gourami as food.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Blue Gourami and Spotted Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Spotted Gar (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 13 cm Blue Gourami whole.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Blue Gourami and Wels Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Blue Gourami is bite-sized to a 300 cm predatory wels catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Blue Gourami and Wolf Cichlid are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Wolf Cichlid (72 cm) is big enough to swallow the 13 cm Blue Gourami whole.
- Your 113 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Blue Gourami care specs
- Care level
- Easy
- Breeding
- Medium
- Max size
- 13 cm (5.1 in)
- Min tank size
- 113 L (29.9 gal)
- Temperature
- 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- pH
- 6–8
- Hardness
- 5–20 dGH
- Lifespan
- 4–8 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Top
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Osphronemidae
- Origin
- Southeast Asia — Mekong basin, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia; widely farmed worldwide
What is a Blue Gourami?
The Blue Gourami (Trichopodus trichopterus) is one of the hardiest and most widely available gouramis in the hobby — a large, handsome labyrinth fish that tolerates a remarkably broad range of water parameters while still being visually striking enough to anchor a community tank. Wild-type fish are blue-grey with two distinct black spots along the body and a third at the eye, giving the species its other common name: the Three-spot Gourami. Selective breeding has also produced the opaline form (a marbled blue-white), the all-gold form, and the Cosby variety, all sold interchangeably under the Blue Gourami banner.
Adults reach up to 13 cm (5 in), making this a noticeably larger gourami than the dwarf or honey species. Like all labyrinth fish, it possesses a specialised labyrinth organ above the gills that allows it to gulp atmospheric air at the surface — a trait that evolved for warm, low-oxygen waters and that makes the Blue Gourami unusually forgiving of suboptimal tank conditions. That toughness, combined with an easy-to-feed omnivorous appetite, earns it a care rating of Easy for adult fishkeepers.
Where do Blue Gouramis come from?
Wild Blue Gouramis are native to Southeast Asia — the Mekong basin and surrounding river systems across Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. Their natural habitat spans sluggish rivers, swamps, rice paddies and floodplain pools: shallow, heavily vegetated water with warm temperatures, soft to moderately hard chemistry, and minimal current.
The vast majority of fish available in stores today are farmed, primarily in Southeast Asia and Eastern Europe, so they are well adapted to a wide range of domestic tap-water conditions. Still, knowing their origin helps explain what they thrive in: warmth, dense surface cover, and quiet water with low to moderate flow.
What size tank does a Blue Gourami need?
The practical minimum is 113 L (30 gal), and for a male-female pair or a pair alongside community fish, stepping up to 150–200 L (40–55 gal) is worthwhile. Blue Gouramis grow to 13 cm (5 in) and, being semi-aggressive top-dwellers, need meaningful horizontal swimming space — a tank that is longer than it is tall suits them best.
Because they breathe atmospheric air, surface access is non-negotiable: keep the water level roughly 5 cm (2 in) from the lid and ensure the lid itself does not trap humid air so tightly that the fish cannot take a fresh breath. Floating plants like water sprite or frogbit are excellent — they diffuse surface turbulence and give the fish a sense of shelter overhead. Dense stem plants and tall decorations breaking sightlines will reduce male-on-male or male-on-other-fish harassment considerably.
Filter flow should be gentle to moderate; a strong return current that constantly disturbs the surface stresses these fish and interferes with labyrinth breathing.
What water parameters do Blue Gouramis need?
Blue Gouramis are among the most parameter-tolerant fish in the freshwater hobby:
- Temperature: 22–28 °C (72–82 °F). They tolerate room temperature reasonably well in warmer climates, but a heater keeping the tank stable above 22 °C is recommended.
- pH: 6.0–8.0 — an unusually broad band. Standard tap water in most regions falls comfortably within this range.
- Hardness: 5–20 dGH. Soft to moderately hard water both work fine.
As with any species, stability matters more than precision. A tank sitting at pH 7.8 and 25 °C (77 °F) all year is better than one that swings between 6.5 and 7.5 with temperature fluctuations. Cycle the tank fully before adding fish, perform weekly partial water changes of 20–30 %, and the Blue Gourami will rarely give you water-chemistry trouble.
What do Blue Gouramis eat?
Blue Gouramis are omnivores with a strong appetite and limited fussiness. A good quality flake or pellet sized for medium fish makes a practical staple; supplement this several times a week with:
- Frozen or live foods: bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are all accepted eagerly and support good colour and conditioning.
- Vegetable matter: blanched zucchini, spinach, or peas (shelled) are often taken from the surface or mid-column. The natural diet includes algae and plant material as well as invertebrates.
Feed once or twice daily in amounts consumed within two to three minutes. These fish will beg persistently, but overfeeding degrades water quality quickly and can cause bloat. Skipping one feeding day per week is a useful discipline.
Are Blue Gouramis aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
Blue Gouramis are classified as semi-aggressive, but that label warrants detail. The aggression is predominantly male-on-male and male-on-perceived-intruder: males stake out the upper tank as territory and will chase, nip and harass any fish they view as competition — which can include other gouramis, large bettas, and any slow or long-finned fish they feel like bullying.
A single male in a community of appropriately sized, moderately fast tank-mates is the most reliable setup. Good companions include larger tetras such as black skirts or Congo tetras, corydoras catfish, swordtails, mollies, peaceful barbs, and similarly sized loaches. Avoid pairing a Blue Gourami with small nano fish (danios excepted, as they are fast enough to escape), fancy-tail fish with trailing fins that invite nipping, or very timid species that will be persistently harassed.
Two males together almost always leads to escalating conflict; even in large, planted tanks the subordinate male rarely gets adequate relief. For a full compatibility breakdown, see Blue Gourami tank mates.
How do you tell male and female Blue Gouramis apart?
Sexing is straightforward in adults. Males have a longer, distinctly pointed dorsal fin and typically show slightly more intense colouration along the flanks; they are noticeably territorial and will flare and chase other males on sight. Females are rounder-bodied — especially visible when gravid — with a shorter, rounded dorsal fin and a generally calmer demeanour. Juveniles under about 5–6 cm can be difficult to sex reliably; wait until the dorsal fin shape becomes clearly differentiated.
How do Blue Gouramis breed?
Blue Gouramis are bubble-nest builders, like most labyrinth fish. Breeding follows a reasonably predictable pattern and is rated Medium difficulty — achievable for a keeper willing to set up a dedicated breeding tank.
Condition the pair on live or frozen foods for one to two weeks before introducing them. The male builds a surface bubble nest, often anchoring it beneath floating plants; he then courts the female with vigorous displays. Spawning occurs in an embrace: the male wraps around the female and fertilises eggs as they float up into the nest. The male then takes sole responsibility for guarding the nest and herding fry. Remove the female after spawning — the male will become aggressive toward her once eggs are laid.
Fry are tiny and require infusoria or commercial first-foods initially, graduating to baby brine shrimp and micro-worms after the first week. Maintain a lid to keep the surface air warm; cold drafts can damage the developing labyrinth organs in juveniles.
What are common Blue Gourami diseases?
Blue Gouramis are robust, but a few conditions appear with some regularity:
- Ich (white spot): Small white granules on fins and body following temperature drops or stress during introduction. Raising temperature gradually and maintaining clean water is the first line of prevention.
- Fin rot: Ragged, receding fin edges — almost always linked to poor water quality or injury from fighting. Regular water changes and removing aggressive tank-mates prevent most cases.
- Gourami disease (Iridovirus): A viral condition associated with farmed fish that causes lethargy, darkening skin and rapid decline. Quarantining new fish for two to four weeks before adding them to an established tank is the most important preventive step.
- Bloat / constipation: Often the result of overfeeding or a diet lacking variety. Fasting for two days and offering green foods helps in mild cases.
Health note: disease identification and medication selection are beyond the scope of a care profile. Confirm symptoms against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source before treating, and always quarantine new fish before introducing them to an established tank.
How long do Blue Gouramis live?
With consistent care, Blue Gouramis typically live 4–8 years. The broad range reflects husbandry: fish kept in stable, clean, appropriately sized tanks with a varied diet consistently reach the upper end of that window. Fish stressed by overcrowding, poor water, or chronic aggression rarely do. Because store fish are often already several months old, buying from a reputable source and getting a young, well-fed specimen gives you the best chance of enjoying those full years.
Frequently asked questions
Can I keep two male Blue Gouramis together?
It's risky. Males are highly territorial and will fight persistently, especially in tanks under 200 L. Most keepers do best with a single male alongside one or two females, or a lone male in a community tank. A larger, well-planted tank with broken sightlines can reduce — but rarely eliminates — male aggression.
What fish make good tank mates for a Blue Gourami?
Aim for fish that are mid-sized, fast enough to avoid harassment, and not fin-nippers. Corydoras, larger tetras like black skirts or Congo tetras, swordtails, and peaceful barbs all tend to work well. Avoid long-finned or very small fish that trigger the gourami's predatory or territorial instincts, and never pair two male gouramis in the same tank without a careful eye.
What you need to keep a blue gourami
The baseline is a heated, filtered 113 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 22–28 °C (72–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a blue gourami in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases — buying through these links costs you nothing extra.
