Photo: Francis Day (Public domain) — via Wikimedia Commons
Burmese Loach (Lepidocephalichthys berdmorei)
A gentle, sand-sifting bottom dweller from Southeast Asian rice paddies that thrives in groups and minds its own business.
Will it live with a Burmese Loach?
We compare each fish against your burmese loach on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Badis✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Banded Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 7 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Black Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Bolivian Ram✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Brilliant Rasbora✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Brilliant Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Celebes Rainbowfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Celebes Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Costa's Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Costa's Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Croaking Gourami✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Dwarf Gourami✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Gold Barb✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7.5 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Gold Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Golden Wonder Killifish✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Goldeneye Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Easy care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Kribensis✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 25–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Molly✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 23–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Murray River Rainbowfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 11 cm · Easy care · 15–26 °C (59–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Murray River Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Rosy Barb✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Rosy Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Splashing Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Splashing Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Thick-lipped Gourami✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Tiger Betta✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 11 cm · Hard care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Topaz Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Afra Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.5 vs 7.8–8.6); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Afra Cichlid in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bandit Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 9 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Bandit Cichlid in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bearded Corydoras⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~80 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Brichardi Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.5 vs 7.8–9); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~80 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Rasbora⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~110 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Clown Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Convict Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 21–28 °C (70–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~110 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Daffodil Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Burmese Loach 6.5–7.5 vs Daffodil Cichlid 7.8–9) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Demasoni Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 9 cm · Hard care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.5 vs 7.8–8.6); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Demasoni Cichlid in a shoal of 12+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Electric Yellow Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–26 °C (73–79 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.5 vs 7.8–8.9); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Giant Danio⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 20–27 °C (68–81 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~110 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Giant Danio in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Johanni Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Burmese Loach 6.5–7.5 vs Johanni Cichlid 7.8–8.6) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Johanni Cichlid in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Lifalili Jewel Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 9 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Mexican Tetra⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 9 cm · Easy care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~110 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Mexican Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Silver Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Silver Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Zebra Loach⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 23–26 °C (73–79 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Size gap is too large (250 vs 9 cm): Alligator Gar will treat Burmese Loach as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Clown Knifefish (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 9 cm Burmese Loach whole.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Burmese Loach is bite-sized to a 100 cm predatory fire eel — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Burmese Loach is bite-sized to a 90 cm koi — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Burmese Loach is bite-sized to a 120 cm predatory redtail catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Size gap is too large (90 vs 9 cm): Spotted Gar will treat Burmese Loach as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Size gap is too large (300 vs 9 cm): Wels Catfish will treat Burmese Loach as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Size gap is too large (72 vs 9 cm): Wolf Cichlid will treat Burmese Loach as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Burmese Loach care specs
- Care level
- Easy
- Breeding
- Hard
- Max size
- 9 cm (3.5 in)
- Min tank size
- 75 L (19.8 gal)
- Temperature
- 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- pH
- 6.5–7.5
- Hardness
- 3–12 dGH
- Lifespan
- 3–6 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Bottom
- Group size
- 5+ (shoaling)
- Family
- Cobitidae
- Origin
- Southeast Asia — Myanmar, Thailand, India, Bangladesh; Irrawaddy, Salween, Chao Phraya and Meklong basins
What is a Burmese Loach?
The Burmese loach (Lepidocephalichthys berdmorei) is a slender, sociable bottom dweller belonging to the family Cobitidae — the true loaches. Reaching around 9 cm (3.5 in), it is patterned in warm tan and pale brown with a darker lateral stripe and subtle mottling that provides effective camouflage over sandy riverbeds and rice-paddy floors. Despite its modest colouration, it is an entertaining fish to observe: groups spend their days sifting sand, wriggling through crevices and often piling loosely on top of one another at rest. The “baby-face” common name refers to its rounded, expressive snout and blunt head profile — an apt description once you see one.
In the aquarium hobby it occupies a genuinely useful niche as a peaceful, soft-water community bottom fish. Its constant substrate activity helps keep the sand turned and oxygenated, and it is compatible with a wide range of small to medium tankmates that share its preference for slightly acidic, moderately soft water. It is rarely imported in large numbers, which makes it more of a find than a shelf staple — worth seeking out for keepers who want an interesting, undemanding loach that is not a clown loach or a kuhli.
Where does the Burmese Loach come from?
The Burmese loach is native to mainland Southeast Asia and the northeastern fringe of South Asia, spanning Myanmar, Thailand, India and Bangladesh. Its natural range tracks four major river systems — the Irrawaddy and Salween in Myanmar, and the Chao Phraya and Meklong basins in Thailand — as well as tributaries and associated rice paddies across that corridor.
Wild populations inhabit the shallower reaches of those systems: slow-flowing or seasonally flooded plains, paddy fields, backwaters and sandy-bottomed streams. The water is typically warm, soft to moderately hard and slightly acidic, coloured faintly by organic leaf litter and sediment. During the monsoon season many of these areas become inundated floodplains where food is abundant; in the dry season fish concentrate in deeper channels and pools. Understanding this seasonal rhythm helps explain why the species is so at home in a planted community tank with gentle flow, fine substrate and dappled light.
What size tank does the Burmese Loach need?
The minimum is 75 litres (20 gal) for a group of five — the smallest socially stable number for this species. A longer footprint matters more than height; a 90 cm (36 in) or longer tank allows the group to spread out and patrol the bottom without constant crowding.
Key setup points:
- Substrate: Fine sand is not optional — it is essential. This loach sifts substrate continuously with its sensitive barbels. Coarse gravel or sharp substrate will abrade and damage those barbels, leading to infection and loss of the fish’s primary sensory tool.
- Cover: Provide driftwood, rounded river stones, terracotta caves and dense planting. The Burmese loach is most active in lower light and retreats to cover during bright periods. Floating plants to break the surface light are a practical addition.
- Filtration: A gentle-to-moderate flow rate suits it well. Strong, direct currents are uncomfortable for a fish this size and body shape. A sponge filter or a canister with a spray bar diffusing the output both work.
- Lid: Fit one. Like most loaches, this species can and will climb silicone seams and exit through any gap.
A 100–120 L (26–32 gal) tank with a sandy bottom, some plant cover and stable water is a comfortable long-term home for a group of six to eight.
What water parameters does the Burmese Loach need?
- Temperature: 22–28 °C (72–82 °F). The species tolerates a modest range, which makes it compatible with a variety of community fish, but aim for 24–26 °C as a stable target.
- pH: 6.5–7.5. Slightly acidic to neutral is the sweet spot; avoid hard alkaline conditions.
- Hardness: 3–12 dGH — soft to moderately hard.
Stability is paramount. Like all loaches, Burmese loaches lack protective scales over much of their body and are more susceptible than most fish to sudden parameter swings. Cycle the tank fully before introduction, maintain a consistent water-change schedule (25–30% weekly is a reasonable baseline), and avoid dramatic temperature drops.
What do Burmese Loaches eat?
The Burmese loach is an omnivore that feeds primarily at the bottom. In the wild it sifts through sediment for small invertebrates, detritus and plant material. In the aquarium it accepts a wide range of foods:
- Sinking pellets and wafers — algae wafers and sinking community pellets form a practical staple.
- Frozen and live foods — bloodworms, daphnia, tubifex and brine shrimp are taken enthusiastically and support condition and colour.
- Leftover debris — the group will scavenge uneaten food from the substrate, which is genuinely helpful in a community tank, though it should not be relied upon as their primary diet.
Feed once or twice daily, target sinking foods toward the substrate layer, and ensure the loaches are actually reaching the food before faster mid-water fish consume it all. In a busy community tank, feeding at lights-out — when loaches are naturally more active — helps guarantee they get their share.
Are Burmese Loaches peaceful — and what fish can live with them?
The Burmese loach is entirely peaceful and presents no aggression toward tankmates. Its only competitive behaviour is minor jostling with its own group at feeding time, which is normal and harmless.
Good tankmates share similar water-parameter needs and an appropriately calm temperament:
- Small, peaceful tetras and rasboras (ember tetras, harlequin rasboras)
- Corydoras (they occupy a similar layer but interactions are gentle)
- Kuhli loaches and other small, mild Cobitid species
- Small to medium peaceful cichlids (e.g. German blue rams in similarly warm, soft water)
- Otocinclus and similar armoured catfish
Avoid large, boisterous loaches (large Botia species) or any fish prone to food aggression at the bottom. The Burmese loach’s gentle nature means it can be out-competed easily if tankmates are assertive feeders.
For a full compatibility list, see Burmese Loach tank mates.
How do you tell male from female Burmese Loaches?
Sexing this species is possible but requires a mature group and some patience. Females grow slightly larger and become noticeably rounder through the belly when sexually mature — a full abdomen is the clearest indicator. Males remain slimmer throughout their body length. The difference is most visible when viewing the fish from above or head-on as they rest on the substrate.
In juvenile fish the sexes are effectively indistinguishable. Because the species is typically sold small and unsexed, buying a group of five or more is the practical approach — the odds favour ending up with both sexes without any need to hand-select.
How do Burmese Loaches breed?
Breeding Lepidocephalichthys berdmorei in captivity is rated hard and has been achieved only rarely in home aquaria. The species likely spawns in response to seasonal cues tied to the monsoon cycle — simulating this with a period of cool, lower-pressure conditions followed by a temperature rise and “rain” (water changes with slightly cooler water) is the standard approach used with other difficult loach species.
A dedicated breeding setup with soft, slightly acidic water, fine-leaved plants or spawning mops and a mesh bottom to protect eggs from adult predation is recommended. Whether eggs are scattered or eggs are mouthbrooded is not well documented for this particular species. Raising fry requires very fine live foods (infusoria, micro worms) from the outset. For most keepers, successfully breeding this loach is a bonus rather than an expectation — the fish is rewarding to keep regardless.
What diseases affect Burmese Loaches?
The most common health issues are the same ones that affect most scaleless or partially scaleless bottom-dwellers:
- Ich (white spot): Stress, temperature drops or introduction of infected fish are the typical triggers. A stable, warm, clean tank is the best prevention. Quarantine all new fish for at least two to four weeks before adding them to a community tank.
- Bacterial infections / fin and barbel erosion: Almost always linked to substrate quality or water hygiene. Coarse or dirty substrate directly causes barbel damage; elevated ammonia or nitrite accelerates infection. Maintain the substrate through gentle vacuuming around (not through) the sand.
- Parasitic worms (Camallanus, etc.): More common when live foods are used without a reputable source. Sourcing live food from clean, established suppliers reduces exposure.
- Skinny disease: Persistent thinness despite eating can indicate internal parasites. Quarantine and observation are essential before treating.
General prevention covers the majority of risk: a fully cycled tank, consistent water changes, fine sand kept reasonably clean, and a proper quarantine period for any new arrival.
Health note: medication dosing and disease diagnosis are beyond the scope of a care profile. Loaches are particularly sensitive to some common treatments — confirm species-specific tolerances against a veterinary or specialist loach resource before medicating.
How long do Burmese Loaches live?
With good care a Burmese loach can reach 3–6 years in the aquarium — toward the lower end for smaller specimens and the upper end for a well-maintained group in a stable, correctly sized tank. The most common reason for shorter lifespans is substrate damage to the barbels, subsequent infection and secondary illness. Get the substrate right from the start and this is a hardy, low-maintenance fish that will reward patient keepers for several years.
Frequently asked questions
Can the Burmese loach live with other loaches?
Yes — it is entirely peaceful and mixes well with similarly sized, gentle loaches such as kuhli loaches and smaller Botia species. Avoid pairing it with large, boisterous loaches that may outcompete it for food at the bottom.
What substrate does the Burmese loach need?
Fine sand is strongly preferred. This species sifts through the substrate constantly in search of food, and coarse gravel or sharp substrate can damage the delicate barbels it relies on to find food and navigate.
What you need to keep a burmese loach
The baseline is a heated, filtered 75 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 22–28 °C (72–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a burmese loach in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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