Photo: AnonymousUnknown author (Public domain) — via Wikimedia Commons
Banjo Catfish (Bunocephalus coracoideus)
A flat, leaf-litter master of disguise that buries itself in the substrate by day and scavenges at night — one of the quirkiest bottom-dwellers available.
Will it live with a Banjo Catfish?
We compare each fish against your banjo catfish on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Badis✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Banded Gourami✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 12 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Black Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Bolivian Ram✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Brilliant Rasbora✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Brilliant Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Burmese Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Dwarf Gourami✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Giant Betta✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Giant Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Golden Wonder Killifish✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Goldeneye Dwarf Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 8 cm · Easy care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Kribensis✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 25–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Molly✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Murray River Rainbowfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 11 cm · Easy care · 15–26 °C (59–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 20–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Murray River Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Rosy Barb✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 20–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Rosy Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Rubbernose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 20–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Swordtail✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Thick-lipped Gourami✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Tiger Betta✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 11 cm · Hard care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Topaz Cichlid✅ CompatibleSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Peaceful + Semi-aggressive, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Angelfish⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~110 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Blue Flash Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Bumblebee Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Banjo Catfish 6–7.5 vs Bumblebee Cichlid 7.8–8.6) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Barb⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~132 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Clown Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Denison Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Denison Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Dolphin Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~208 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Eureka Red Peacock Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6–7.5 vs 7.8–8.6); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Firemouth Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–29 °C (72–84 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Giant Glass Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Gold Zebra Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 25–29 °C (77–84 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~130 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Green Phantom Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Jewel Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Moonlight Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Panama Convict Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Talking Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~110 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Yoyo Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Size gap is too large (250 vs 15 cm): Alligator Gar will treat Banjo Catfish as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Clown Knifefish (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 15 cm Banjo Catfish whole.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Size gap is too large (100 vs 15 cm): Fire Eel will treat Banjo Catfish as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Size gap is too large (90 vs 15 cm): Koi will treat Banjo Catfish as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Redtail Catfish (120 cm) is big enough to swallow the 15 cm Banjo Catfish whole.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Banjo Catfish is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory spotted gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Banjo Catfish is bite-sized to a 300 cm predatory wels catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Size gap is too large (72 vs 15 cm): Wolf Cichlid will treat Banjo Catfish as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Banjo Catfish care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Hard
- Max size
- 15 cm (5.9 in)
- Min tank size
- 75 L (19.8 gal)
- Temperature
- 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- pH
- 6–7.5
- Hardness
- 2–15 dGH
- Lifespan
- 5–10 years
- Diet
- Carnivore
- Swim level
- Bottom
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Aspredinidae
- Origin
- South America — Amazon and Orinoco basins (Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil)
What is a Banjo Catfish?
The banjo catfish (Bunocephalus coracoideus) is a nocturnal bottom-dweller from South America whose flattened, asymmetrically shaped body bears an unmistakable resemblance to a banjo — a broad, disc-like head tapering abruptly into a long, ridged, spine-studded tail. Mottled in dark brown and tan with a pale underside, it is one of the most convincing camouflage artists in the freshwater aquarium hobby, practically disappearing against sandy substrate or leaf litter. Adults reach up to 15 cm (6 in) in total length, though the tail accounts for a significant share of that.
This species belongs to the family Aspredinidae, a group of South American catfishes collectively known as banjo catfishes. Bunocephalus coracoideus — sometimes sold under the names Two-colored banjo catfish or Guitarrita — is the most frequently exported representative and appears sporadically in specialist fish shops. Its appeal is niche: it offers almost no colour, a lifestyle that amounts to “statue by day, scavenger by night,” and requires a bit of thought around feeding and substrate. In exchange it is completely peaceful, long-lived (5–10 years), hardy once settled, and utterly fascinating once you start noticing its subtle behaviours.
Where do Banjo Catfish come from?
The banjo catfish is native to the Amazon and Orinoco river basins of South America, with a range spanning Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia and Brazil. In the wild it inhabits slow-moving to still waters: shallow stream margins, flooded forest floors, and backwater pools where accumulated leaf litter builds up over fine silt and sand. Water in these habitats tends to be soft, moderately acidic, tea-coloured from tannins, and relatively cool by tropical standards.
That biotope is the template for good care. The fish is adapted to dig into fine sediment, press itself beneath decomposing leaves and wedge against submerged roots — all of which it will replicate in an aquarium given the chance. Wild populations experience seasonal fluctuations in temperature and water level, which is why the species tolerates a reasonably wide parameter range in captivity.
What tank size and setup does a Banjo Catfish need?
A single banjo catfish requires a minimum of 75 L (20 gal). That footprint matters more than raw volume — a long, low tank gives more substrate area for the fish to claim, which is where it spends virtually every hour of every day.
The most important element of any banjo catfish setup is the substrate: a layer of fine play sand or smooth-grained river sand at least 5–6 cm (2 in) deep. This is not cosmetic — the fish buries itself in sand as a core behavioural need, and a coarse-gravel tank denies it that entirely. Over the sand, a generous covering of dried botanicals (Indian almond leaves, oak leaves, or beech leaves) replicates their leaf-litter habitat, provides hiding cover during daylight hours, and releases tannins that mildly acidify and soften the water. Driftwood branches, flat stones and hollow root sections complete the décor.
Lighting should be dim or supplemented with heavily shaded areas; the fish is a strict bottom-dweller and bright tanks cause it to remain buried longer. A gentle, efficient filter is essential — the species is sensitive to deteriorating water quality — but strong currents should be avoided. A tight-fitting lid is advisable; like most catfishes, banjo cats will occasionally explore at night and can exit a tank through small gaps.
What water parameters does a Banjo Catfish need?
Banjo catfish thrive in the soft, slightly acidic to neutral water of their Amazonian origin:
- Temperature: 20–26 °C (68–79 °F). They tolerate the cooler end of the tropical spectrum well and do not require high heat.
- pH: 6.0–7.5. Aim for the lower half of this range if possible, matching their tannin-stained native waters.
- Hardness: 2–15 dGH. Soft to moderately hard water is acceptable; very hard, alkaline tap water should be treated or blended before use.
Stability is critical. The species can adjust to a moderately wide range, but rapid swings in temperature or chemistry are stressful. A cycled, well-maintained tank with weekly partial water changes of 25–30% is the foundation of long-term health. Avoid using substrate or décor that significantly raises pH or hardness (such as coral sand or calcareous rocks).
What do Banjo Catfish eat?
Banjo catfish are carnivores and dedicated nocturnal scavengers. In the wild they probe the substrate for invertebrates, insect larvae, worms and organic detritus after dark. In captivity, feeding should mimic that timing — add food after the aquarium lights go out or well into the evening.
Effective foods include: sinking carnivore pellets, frozen bloodworms, frozen Tubifex, frozen daphnia, frozen brine shrimp, and small pieces of chopped earthworm. The fish will also consume any uneaten food that drifts to the bottom during the day, but should not be relied on as a tank cleaner — that approach leads to underfeeding and nutritional deficiency. Offer a dedicated feeding three to four times per week and watch to confirm the fish is eating; it is easy to assume they are catching scraps when they are actually going hungry.
Remove uneaten food the following morning with a turkey baster or small siphon to keep the substrate clean.
How do Banjo Catfish behave, and what fish can they live with?
Banjo catfish are entirely peaceful and pose no threat to any fish too large to swallow — and given their small mouth and sedentary lifestyle, that covers virtually everything a community tank contains. They are not social in the sense of schooling or actively seeking conspecifics, but a single individual is perfectly content and min_group_size of 1 is sufficient.
Their only real needs as tank-mates are: (1) peaceful species that will not harass or outcompete them for bottom space, and (2) species that share similar soft, slightly acidic water preferences. Ideal companions include small tetras (neon, ember, rummy-nose), hatchetfish, pencilfish, apistogramma and other dwarf cichlids, corydoras, otocinclus, and peaceful loaches such as kuhli loaches. Avoid large cichlids, aggressive or boisterous species, and fish that dig or rearrange substrate habitually.
Because the banjo catfish feeds only after dark, any faster-moving daytime feeders will not compete with it at the food source — a practical advantage in a mixed community.
For a full, filterable list of compatible and incompatible species, see Banjo Catfish tank mates.
How do you tell male from female Banjo Catfish?
Sexual dimorphism is subtle in this species outside of breeding condition, but the clearest indicator is body shape when viewed from directly above. Females are noticeably wider-bodied and more rotund than males, particularly in the broad head/thorax region, and this difference becomes pronounced when females are carrying eggs. Males tend to be slimmer with a less dramatic taper between head and tail.
In an aquarium context, sexing individual fish reliably is difficult unless the group includes both sexes in reasonable numbers for comparison. Reliable sexing typically requires observing a group rather than making a judgment on a single specimen.
How do Banjo Catfish breed?
Breeding Bunocephalus coracoideus in captivity is rated hard and is relatively rare in the hobby. Reports from dedicated breeders suggest the following general pattern: after conditioning on varied live and frozen foods, a simulated seasonal change — a gradual temperature drop followed by a period of increased water changes with slightly cooler water — can trigger spawning behaviour. Females are notably larger and wider-bodied when gravid.
Eggs are adhesive and typically deposited on flat surfaces, decor, or leaf litter; the male may provide some egg-guarding behaviour, though reports vary. Raising fry requires very fine live foods (infusoria, newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii) and scrupulous water quality. Because reliable breeding accounts are scarce, hobbyists interested in breeding this species should seek current reports from dedicated catfish forums (Planet Catfish is a useful resource) for the most detailed firsthand accounts.
What diseases are common in Banjo Catfish?
Banjo catfish are not especially disease-prone when kept in good conditions, but they share vulnerabilities common to scaleless or lightly armoured bottom-dwellers:
- Bacterial infections: Usually secondary to physical injury (e.g., abrasion from coarse substrate) or poor water quality. Red streaking, ulceration or unusual patches on the skin are warning signs.
- Ich (white spot): Can affect this species as with any freshwater fish, appearing as small white granules on the body and fins. A sudden drop in temperature or introduction of unquarantined fish are the usual triggers.
- Internal parasites: Wild-caught specimens may harbour internal worms. Fish that eat readily but remain thin despite regular feeding may warrant investigation.
- Fungal infections: Most common following injury, poor water quality or stress.
Prevention centres on three things: a fine, non-abrasive substrate to prevent skin damage, consistently clean water, and a two-to-four week quarantine for all new fish before they join the display tank. Use medications formulated for scaleless catfishes and at reduced doses if treatment becomes necessary — banjo catfishes, like most members of Aspredinidae, can be more sensitive to certain chemical treatments than scaled fish.
Health note: medication dosing and disease diagnosis are beyond the scope of a care profile. For a sick fish, confirm symptoms against a reputable veterinary or specialist fish-health resource before medicating, and note that treatments appropriate for scaled fish may require dose adjustment for this species.
How long do Banjo Catfish live?
With good care, banjo catfish are genuinely long-lived aquarium residents: a healthy specimen can reach 5–10 years. That lifespan is often unrecognised by new keepers who assume a motionless, drab catfish is short-lived or in poor health. Provide a fine sandy substrate, soft slightly acidic water in the 20–26 °C (68–79 °F) range, reliable nocturnal feedings, and stable water quality — and there is every reason to expect a decade of this eccentric, endearing fish quietly watching your aquarium from the floor up.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my banjo catfish just sit there and not move?
That is normal behaviour. Bunocephalus coracoideus is nocturnal and spends most of the day completely motionless, often buried to the eyes in sand or wedged under a piece of wood or leaf litter. Activity picks up significantly after lights-out. If the fish is breathing and responds to disturbance it is fine — a still banjo catfish is a healthy banjo catfish.
What should I feed a banjo catfish?
Offer sinking foods after lights-out when the fish is active — small sinking pellets, frozen bloodworms, Tubifex, daphnia or chopped earthworms work well. They scavenge uneaten food from the substrate too, but should not be relied on as a cleanup crew; provide dedicated feedings at least three to four times per week.
What you need to keep a banjo catfish
The baseline is a heated, filtered 75 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 20–26 °C (68–79 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a banjo catfish in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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