Photo: Carlosar (CC BY-SA 3.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare)
The tall, regal centrepiece of the planted community tank — graceful to look at, but a cichlid with cichlid attitude.
Will it live with a Angelfish?
We compare each fish against your angelfish on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Banjo Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Bearded Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bristlenose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 23–30 °C (73–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–30 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Burmese Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Clown Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Corydoras Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Corydoras Catfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Giant Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–30 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–30 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Pantanal Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–27 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Pantanal Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Peppered Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Peppered Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Porthole Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Spotfin Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Spotfin Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Spotted Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Rubbernose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Sterbai Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Sterbai Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Striped Eel Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Zebra Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Hard care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Blue Flash Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Angelfish and Blue Flash Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Calvus Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 14 cm · Medium care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6–7.5 vs 7.8–9); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Barb⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~132 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Clown Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Denison Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Angelfish and Denison Barb are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add denison barb in a group to spread the pressure.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Denison Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Dolphin Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~208 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Electric Blue Acara⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 16 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Emperor Peacock Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Angelfish 6–7.5 vs Emperor Peacock Cichlid 7.6–8.6) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Angelfish and Emperor Peacock Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Eureka Red Peacock Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6–7.5 vs 7.8–8.6); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Firemouth Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–29 °C (72–84 °F)
- Angelfish and Firemouth Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Giant Glass Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Angelfish and Giant Glass Catfish are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add giant glass catfish in a group to spread the pressure.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Gold Zebra Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 25–29 °C (77–84 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~130 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Green Phantom Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Moonlight Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Angelfish is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Moonlight Gourami — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Rainbow Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~130 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Snowball Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Yoyo Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Angelfish and Yoyo Loach can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~115 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Angelfish and Alligator Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Angelfish is bite-sized to a 250 cm predatory alligator gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Angelfish and Clown Knifefish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Angelfish is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory clown knifefish — it will be eaten.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Fire Eel (100 cm) is big enough to swallow the 15 cm Angelfish whole.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Koi (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 15 cm Angelfish whole.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Angelfish and Redtail Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (120 vs 15 cm): Redtail Catfish will treat Angelfish as food.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Angelfish and Spotted Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Angelfish is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory spotted gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Angelfish and Wels Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Angelfish is bite-sized to a 300 cm predatory wels catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Angelfish and Wolf Cichlid are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Wolf Cichlid (72 cm) is big enough to swallow the 15 cm Angelfish whole.
- Your 110 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Angelfish care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Medium
- Max size
- 15 cm (5.9 in)
- Min tank size
- 110 L (29.1 gal)
- Temperature
- 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- pH
- 6–7.5
- Hardness
- 3–10 dGH
- Lifespan
- 8–10 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Middle
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Cichlidae
- Origin
- Amazon basin — slow, planted blackwater of Peru, Colombia and Brazil
What is a freshwater angelfish?
The angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) is one of the most iconic freshwater fish in the hobby — a tall, laterally compressed cichlid whose disc-shaped body, flowing fins and deliberate, gliding movement have made it a planted-tank centrepiece for over a century. It reaches up to 15 cm (6 in) in body height and roughly the same in length when those dorsal and anal fins are fully extended; in a tall planted tank, a mature angel in full colour is genuinely striking.
Do not let the elegance fool you. This is a cichlid — a member of the family Cichlidae — with real cichlid behaviours: territory defence, pair bonding, predation of small fish and the capacity to redecorate a tank during spawning. That combination of beauty and character is precisely what keeps it in the hobby, but it also means angelfsh demand more thought than a typical community fish.
Wild angelfish are found in the slow, warm, heavily vegetated waters of the Amazon basin in Peru, Colombia and Brazil — blackwater rivers and flooded forest margins with soft, acidic water and dense plant cover. Aquarium strains (silver, zebra, koi, marble, black, veil-fin and more) are many generations removed from wild stock but share the same environmental needs.
Where do angelfish come from?
Angelfish are native to the Amazon basin across Peru, Colombia and Brazil. In the wild they inhabit slow-moving rivers, lake margins and seasonally flooded forest (igapó), where submerged roots, tall aquatic plants and leaf litter provide cover and hunting grounds. The water is typically warm, soft and slightly acidic — the tea-coloured blackwater stained by decaying organic matter that characterises much of the Amazon drainage.
Understanding this origin is useful: the angel’s preference for tall vegetation, gentle current and dappled cover is not an aesthetic affectation but a reflection of where the species evolved. A planted tank with tall stem plants or Amazon swords, subdued lighting and minimal flow closely mirrors the wild habitat and produces noticeably calmer, bolder fish than a bare, bright, high-flow setup.
What size tank does an angelfish need?
The minimum practical tank size is 110 litres (29 gallons), but the more important constraint is height. Angelfish are tall-bodied; the tank should be at least 45 cm (18 in) deep to allow a mature fish to swim and turn without catching its fins on the substrate or the lid. A 110 L footprint-tank that is only 30 cm tall is inadequate even if the volume is right.
For a small group of adults — which is the best way to keep them — a 200 L (53 gal) or larger tank is far more appropriate. More volume buffers water-quality swings, and a bigger footprint reduces territorial friction. Taller tanks (50–60 cm / 20–24 in) let you plant tall background species that make angels feel genuinely at home. A lid is advisable; angelfish are not habitual jumpers but can startle and leap when panicked.
What water parameters do angelfish need?
- Temperature: 24–30 °C (75–86 °F). Angels prefer the warmer end of the tropical range; sustained temperatures below 22 °C suppress immunity and appetite.
- pH: 6.0–7.5. Wild fish live in acidic blackwater, but aquarium-raised stock is adaptable across a neutral-to-slightly-acidic range. Stability matters more than hitting a precise number.
- Hardness: 3–10 dGH (soft to moderately hard). Very hard, alkaline water is unsuitable.
- Ammonia / nitrite: zero at all times. Angelfish are sensitive to nitrogen-cycle problems.
- Flow: gentle. Strong filter currents stress them and make feeding harder; use spray bars, lily pipes or baffled outlets to diffuse the flow.
Cycle the tank fully before adding fish, perform weekly 25–30% water changes and avoid rapid parameter swings. The 8–10 year lifespan this species can reach is only achievable in consistently clean, stable water.
What do angelfish eat?
Angelfish are omnivores with a carnivorous lean in the wild, where they hunt small fish, invertebrates and insect larvae among plant stems and roots. In the aquarium, a quality cichlid pellet or granule as a daily staple, rotated with frozen or live bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia, produces strong colour and condition. They will also take flake food readily, though pellets produce less waste.
Feed small amounts twice a day — only what the fish consume in two to three minutes. Angelfish are assertive feeders and can outcompete slower tank-mates, so watch that subordinate fish are getting their share. Because they hunt at the middle water column, surface-floating foods are less efficient than sinking pellets or foods broadcast into mid-water. Occasional vegetable matter (blanched spinach, spirulina flake) rounds out an omnivore diet.
Are angelfish aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
Angelfish are rated semi-aggressive, a descriptor that requires unpacking. In a spacious planted tank with suitable tank-mates, adults are often calm and stately. However:
- Breeding pairs become highly territorial and will chase and injure other tank inhabitants, sometimes relentlessly. This is normal cichlid behaviour and not a sign of a “bad” fish.
- Small fish are at genuine risk. A 15 cm adult can swallow a neon tetra whole, and small rasboras, small corydoras or any fish under 3–4 cm are likely prey. Pair angels with fish too large to eat.
- Fin-nippers damage angels. Tiger barbs and similar species shred the long trailing fins; avoid them.
Reliable community companions include larger tetras (black skirt, bleeding heart, emperor), larger rasboras, keyhole cichlids (similarly peaceful), bristlenose plecos and rummynose or cardinal tetras — the latter are just borderline on size for small angels, so add them when the angel is still juvenile and they’ve grown up together. Discus are sometimes kept with angels in warm, soft water, though discus have stricter parameter needs.
For a full filterable list of compatible and incompatible species, see Angelfish tank mates.
How do you tell male and female angelfish apart?
Sexing angelfish is notoriously difficult and reliable only at breeding time. Outside of spawning, most visual cues are subtle and inconsistent:
- Forehead profile: mature males may develop a slightly more convex, rounded forehead; females tend to be flatter between the eyes. This is a population-level tendency, not a reliable individual marker.
- Body shape: gravid (egg-carrying) females develop a visibly rounded belly in the weeks before spawning.
- Breeding tube: the most reliable method — when conditioning, the female’s ovipositor (egg-laying tube) is blunt and wider; the male’s is narrower and pointed. Both tubes drop slightly from the vent before spawning.
The most practical approach is to buy a group of six or more juveniles and let natural pair bonds form. When a pair starts cleaning a surface and displaying to each other — and defending that area from tank-mates — you have your couple. Trying to buy a guaranteed pair or sex individuals by eye alone usually ends in frustration.
How do angelfish breed?
Angelfish are substrate spawners that form monogamous pairs. Once bonded, a pair will select a spawning site — typically a broad plant leaf (Amazon sword is the classic), a flat piece of slate or even the aquarium glass — clean it meticulously, and the female will lay 100–1,000 eggs in neat rows. The male follows, fertilising each pass.
Both parents actively guard and fan the eggs, removing unfertile ones and keeping the site clean. Eggs hatch in about 60 hours at 28 °C (82 °F); the wriggling larvae are moved by the parents to a shallow pit or attached to a surface until they become free-swimming after another 5–7 days. In a community tank most spawning attempts fail because other fish eat the eggs or parental stress leads the pair to eat them pre-emptively. A dedicated breeding tank of 60–80 L with minimal tank-mates, soft water and subdued light gives the highest success rate.
Fry are raised on freshly hatched brine shrimp nauplii and microworms, with frequent small water changes. Breeding difficulty is rated medium — the fish do most of the work, but managing fry and protecting spawning pairs takes planning.
What are common angelfish diseases?
Angelfish share the disease susceptibility of most Amazonian cichlids. Watch for:
- Ich (white spot disease): small white spots across the body and fins, caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Almost always introduced by new fish or plants; quarantine all additions.
- Hole-in-the-head (HITH): pitting or erosion around the head and lateral line, associated with poor water quality, activated-carbon overuse and nutritional deficiency. Prevention is good husbandry and a varied diet.
- Fin rot: progressive fraying or recession of fin edges, typically a secondary bacterial infection following physical damage or water-quality lapses. Improve water conditions first.
- Hexamita / internal parasites: internal flagellate infections can produce white stringy faeces, loss of appetite and HITH symptoms. Seen more in stressed or immunocompromised fish.
- Velvet: a fine gold or rust-coloured dusting on the body — a different parasite from ich but similarly introduced through new additions.
Prevention centres on the same principles: a cycled, stable tank; quarantine of all new fish and plants for 4–6 weeks; a nutritious, varied diet; and prompt investigation of any behavioural change.
Health note: symptom descriptions here are for awareness only. Confirm your diagnosis against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source before medicating, and address water quality before reaching for treatments.
How long do angelfish live?
A well-cared-for angelfish lives 8–10 years, which is long by community fish standards. That lifespan is only achievable with consistently excellent water quality, a varied diet, appropriate tank-mates and a large enough tank to minimise chronic stress. Fish kept in cramped, warm, hard water with fin-nippers and poor filtration rarely approach that potential.
Because aquarium-bred juveniles are typically sold at 4–8 weeks old — small, dime-sized fish — you have most of their life ahead when you buy them. Invest in the right setup from the start: a tall, planted, well-filtered tank suited to their adult size repays you with a decade of one of the aquarium hobby’s most charismatic species.
Frequently asked questions
Can angelfish live with neon tetras?
Not safely as the angelfish grows. A full-grown angelfish has a mouth big enough to eat neon tetras, and they're a classic "tank-mate that becomes a snack." Pair angels with fish too large to swallow.
Do angelfish need a tall tank?
Yes. Angelfish are tall-bodied and need vertical swimming space — a tank at least 45 cm (18 in) high and 110 L+, ideally taller for adults.
What you need to keep a angelfish
The baseline is a heated, filtered 110 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 24–30 °C (75–86 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a angelfish in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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