Photo: WWELNUR (CC BY 4.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Blood Parrot Cichlid (Amphilophus hybrid)
A bright orange man-made cichlid hybrid with a permanent grin — bold enough to command a tank, yet surprisingly shy for a cichlid thanks to its tiny, deformed mouth.
Will it live with a Blood Parrot Cichlid?
We compare each fish against your blood parrot cichlid on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Banjo Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Bearded Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bristlenose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 23–30 °C (73–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Clown Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Giant Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 25–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Medusa Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 26–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Porthole Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Rubber Lip Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Snowball Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Spotted Rubbernose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Striped Eel Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Upside-down Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Weather Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 25 cm · Easy care · 5–24 °C (41–75 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Zebra Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Hard care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Altifrons Geophagus⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 25 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~378 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Altifrons Geophagus in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Angelicus Synodontis⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 25 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Discus⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 20 cm · Hard care · 28–31 °C (82–88 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Discus are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add discus in a group to spread the pressure.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Discus in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Electric Blue Acara⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 16 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Electric Blue Acara can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Electric Blue Hap⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 20 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.4 vs 7.8–8.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~250 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Emperor Peacock Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.4 vs 7.6–8.6); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Blue Empress Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 18 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6.5–7.4 vs 7.5–8.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~400 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Galaxy Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 25 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Goldie Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 20 cm · Medium care · 24–29 °C (75–84 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Green Severum⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 20 cm · Medium care · 23–29 °C (73–84 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Green Severum can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~208 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Guyana Flag Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 18 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Guyana Flag Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Honeycomb Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 21 cm · Medium care · 24–29 °C (75–84 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~280 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Platinum Acara⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 20 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Platinum Acara can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spanner Barb⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 18 cm · Medium care · 23–29 °C (73–84 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Spanner Barb can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Blood Parrot Cichlid is slow and long-finned; a busy spanner barb shoal tends to nip at it. Keep spanner barb in a proper group of 6+ and watch them closely.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~208 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Spanner Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Striped Raphael Catfish⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 20 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Tiger Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 20 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Tiger Loach can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Alligator Gar are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Alligator Gar (250 cm) is big enough to swallow the 20 cm Blood Parrot Cichlid whole.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Blood Parrot Cichlid and Clown Knifefish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (90 vs 20 cm): Clown Knifefish will treat Blood Parrot Cichlid as food.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid is bite-sized to a 100 cm predatory fire eel — it will be eaten.
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Fire Eel can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Size gap is too large (90 vs 20 cm): Koi will treat Blood Parrot Cichlid as food.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Redtail Catfish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Size gap is too large (120 vs 20 cm): Redtail Catfish will treat Blood Parrot Cichlid as food.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Spotted Gar are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Spotted Gar (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 20 cm Blood Parrot Cichlid whole.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Blood Parrot Cichlid and Wels Catfish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Blood Parrot Cichlid is bite-sized to a 300 cm predatory wels catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Blood Parrot Cichlid and Wolf Cichlid will hold territory and clash.
- Blood Parrot Cichlid is bite-sized to a 72 cm predatory wolf cichlid — it will be eaten.
- Your 190 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Blood Parrot Cichlid care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Very Hard
- Max size
- 20 cm (7.9 in)
- Min tank size
- 190 L (50.2 gal)
- Temperature
- 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH
- 6.5–7.4
- Hardness
- 6–18 dGH
- Lifespan
- 10–15 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Middle
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Cichlidae
- Origin
- Man-made hybrid; widely produced in Taiwan and Southeast Asia; no wild population
What is a Blood Parrot Cichlid?
The blood parrot cichlid is a man-made hybrid — most likely a cross between a Midas cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus) and a redhead cichlid (Paraneetroplus synspilus) — first bred in Taiwan in the 1980s. The result is a round-bodied, vividly orange fish with a distinctive beak-shaped mouth that points upward and cannot fully close, giving it a permanently curious, grinning expression.
Despite being a product of selective hybridisation rather than evolution, the blood parrot has earned a genuine following. Adults reach up to 20 cm (8 in), carry a rich orange-red colouration, and develop recognisable individual personalities. Their hybrid anatomy does create some real limitations — the narrow mouth, for example, rules out most large or hard foods — but with the right setup they are hardy, long-lived fish that can anchor a large cichlid community for a decade or more.
A word of caution on dyed specimens: some retailers sell blood parrots that have been injected with bright novelty colours (purple, blue, green). The dye procedure stresses the fish, often shortens its life, and fades over time. Seek out naturally orange individuals from a reputable source.
Where do Blood Parrot Cichlids come from?
Blood parrot cichlids have no wild population. They are entirely man-made hybrids, produced at scale in commercial breeding facilities in Taiwan and across Southeast Asia. The exact parent species combination has never been officially confirmed by breeders, but morphological and genetic evidence points strongly toward the Midas cichlid and the redhead cichlid — both large, stocky Central American species known for vibrant coloration.
Because there is no natural habitat to replicate, care guidelines are drawn from the parent species’ native range: warm, moderately hard, neutral-to-slightly-acidic freshwater rivers and lakes in Central America. Replicating those conditions — stable temperature, moderate hardness, and good oxygenation — keeps blood parrots comfortable even though they never lived in those rivers themselves.
What size tank does a Blood Parrot Cichlid need?
A single adult blood parrot requires at minimum 190 L (50 gal). These fish grow to 20 cm (8 in), are active mid-water swimmers, and are territorial enough to claim a substantial portion of the tank as their own. A cramped tank amplifies aggression and stress.
For each additional blood parrot, budget at least another 75–80 L (20 gal) of space. A group of three, for instance, would be far better in a 340–380 L (90–100 gal) tank. Choose a tank that prioritises footprint (length and width) over height — blood parrots spend most of their time in the middle column and benefit more from horizontal swimming room.
Furnish the tank with caves, overturned flowerpots, and driftwood. Despite their size, blood parrots are often skittish and retreat to hiding spots when startled. Adequate cover reduces stress and associated aggression. Substrate can be fine gravel or sand; they will dig occasionally but are not the destructive excavators that some South American cichlids are. Leave open swimming space in the centre of the tank alongside the hiding areas.
What water parameters do Blood Parrot Cichlids need?
- Temperature: 24–28 °C (75–82 °F). A reliable heater is essential; sudden drops trigger ich and other stress-related illness.
- pH: 6.5–7.4, slightly acidic to neutral.
- Hardness: 6–18 dGH, moderately soft to moderately hard.
- Filtration: Strong biological filtration is critical. Blood parrots are messy eaters and heavy waste producers; target a turnover of 6–8× the tank volume per hour and supplement with good mechanical filtration.
Perform weekly water changes of 25–30%. Like all large cichlids, blood parrots are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite spikes — a fully cycled tank and consistent maintenance schedule are the single biggest factors in long-term health. Keep a test kit on hand, especially in the first few months.
What do Blood Parrot Cichlids eat?
Blood parrots are omnivores, but their upward-pointing, narrow mouth imposes a real constraint: they cannot bite off chunks of large food items or take wide, hard pellets. Stick to small sinking pellets or cichlid pellets no larger than about 3–4 mm, and select soft or semi-soft formulations wherever possible.
Round out the diet with:
- Frozen or live foods: bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia are accepted enthusiastically and support colour.
- Blanched vegetables: zucchini, peas (shelled), and spinach in small pieces.
- Quality flake or small granules as a daily staple if pellets are refused.
Feed small amounts two to three times daily, removing uneaten food within a few minutes. Overfeeding is a leading cause of poor water quality and digestive problems in this species. The small mouth means blood parrots are slower eaters than most cichlids, so when kept with faster tank-mates, ensure they actually get their share.
Are Blood Parrot Cichlids aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
Blood parrots are rated semi-aggressive, but their temperament is notably nuanced. Their malformed mouth significantly limits their capacity to inflict damage — biting is mostly ineffective — so they are rarely the dominant threat in a cichlid community. Many individuals are actually quite shy and can be bullied by more assertive tank-mates.
That said, they will defend territories and hiding spots, especially during spawning activity, and should not be kept with very small or timid fish that cannot hold their own. Avoid pairing them with highly aggressive species like large Oscars or Texas cichlids that may outcompete or injure them despite the parrot’s size.
Good tank-mate candidates include similarly sized, moderately assertive fish: severum cichlids, blue acaras, firemouth cichlids, larger peaceful tetras (such as black skirt or bleeding hearts in schools), bristlenose plecos, and clown loaches. Avoid highly aggressive or nippy species, and avoid very small nano fish that will be stressed or eaten.
For a full filterable list of compatible species, see Blood Parrot Cichlid tank mates.
How do you tell male and female Blood Parrot Cichlids apart?
Sexual dimorphism in blood parrots is difficult to determine externally, making this one of the more frustrating aspects of working with this species. Males are typically slightly larger and may show a marginally more robust build at full adult size, but in practice this distinction requires comparing multiple fish of known size and age — it is not a reliable field identification.
The most functionally significant difference is reproductive: males are infertile. The hybridisation that produces blood parrots results in sterile males, meaning even if a male successfully courts a female and she produces eggs, fertilisation will not occur without the involvement of a different cichlid species (such as a severum or convict). Females are capable of producing viable eggs, but without a fertile male of a compatible species, those eggs will not hatch.
If you want to know the sex of your fish, consult an experienced cichlid keeper who can assess body shape and genital papilla; even then, certainty is not guaranteed.
How do Blood Parrot Cichlids breed?
Breeding blood parrots is rated Very Hard, and for good reason. Males are sterile — they cannot fertilise eggs — so a standard pair will never produce viable offspring. Females may go through spawning motions, depositing unfertilised eggs on flat rocks or cave surfaces, but nothing will hatch.
Successful spawning has been achieved by pairing a female blood parrot with a fertile male of a related species — most commonly a severum (Heros efasciatus), a convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata), or occasionally other large American cichlids. The offspring from these pairings are hybrid fish with variable appearances, not true blood parrots.
If a female does spawn, she will display typical cichlid maternal behaviour: guarding the clutch vigorously, fanning eggs, and defending the site. The semi-aggressive temperament intensifies noticeably around spawning events, so tank-mates may need to be separated temporarily. Hobbyist success with deliberately breeding blood parrots is rare; most keepers simply enjoy them as display fish.
What are common Blood Parrot Cichlid diseases?
Blood parrots are susceptible to the standard freshwater cichlid disease set, most of which are preventable with good husbandry:
- Ich (white spot): Small white granules on the body and fins, often triggered by temperature drops or stress. Maintain stable heat and avoid sudden chilling when doing water changes.
- Hole-in-the-head disease (Hexamitia/HLLE): Pitting or erosions on the head and lateral line, linked to poor water quality, nutritional deficiency, and activated carbon overuse. High-quality water and a varied diet are the primary prevention.
- Fin and body fungus: White or grey cottony patches, usually secondary to injury or very poor water. Keep water clean and treat wounds promptly.
- Bacterial infections: Often manifest as ulcers, redness, or clamped fins. Almost always tied to water quality problems or stocking stress.
- Parasitic worms: Occasionally seen in fish from crowded wholesale conditions. Quarantine all new fish for at least two weeks before adding them to an established tank.
Prevention is straightforward: maintain excellent filtration, perform consistent water changes, quarantine new arrivals, and feed a varied diet. Blood parrots’ hybrid vigour gives them reasonable disease resistance in a well-maintained system.
Health note: always confirm your diagnosis against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source before medicating. The symptoms of different diseases often overlap, and incorrect treatment can cause additional stress.
How long do Blood Parrot Cichlids live?
With good care, blood parrots live 10–15 years — an impressive lifespan that reflects both their cichlid genetics and the hybrid vigour common in first-generation crosses. They are a genuine long-term commitment; a healthy fish purchased today could still be with you well into the next decade.
The keys to reaching the upper end of that range are the same factors that apply throughout their care: stable, clean water; a spacious tank that avoids chronic stress; a varied, appropriately sized diet; and early attention to any signs of illness. Blood parrots that live in cramped, poorly filtered tanks with inconsistent care rarely approach 10 years; those in well-run large cichlid setups routinely do.
Frequently asked questions
Are blood parrot cichlids aggressive?
They are semi-aggressive but often less threatening than their size suggests. Their small, malformed mouth limits how much damage they can do, and many individuals are actually shy or easily bullied. They will defend a territory, especially during spawning, so avoid housing them with timid nano fish or highly aggressive cichlids.
Why can't blood parrot cichlids breed?
Males are sterile due to the hybrid origin of the fish. Females can sometimes produce eggs and have spawned successfully with other cichlids (such as severums or convicts), but this is uncommon and the offspring are mixed hybrids. Standard breeding for this species is not reliably possible — rate it Very Hard in practice.
What you need to keep a blood parrot cichlid
The baseline is a heated, filtered 190 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 24–28 °C (75–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a blood parrot cichlid in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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