Photo: Loïc Tremblay (CC BY-SA 3.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher)
A medium cichlid that looks like it was dipped in neon — electric iridescent blue from snout to tail, yet calm enough to live with robust community fish.
Will it live with a Electric Blue Acara?
We compare each fish against your electric blue acara on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Banjo Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Bearded Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bristlenose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 23–30 °C (73–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Burmese Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Clown Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Corydoras Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Corydoras Catfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Giant Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Medusa Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 26–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Pantanal Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Pantanal Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Peppered Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Peppered Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Porthole Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Rubber Lip Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Spotfin Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Spotfin Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Spotted Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Rubbernose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Sterbai Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Sterbai Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Striped Eel Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Upside-down Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Zebra Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 23–26 °C (73–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Zebra Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Hard care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 26–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Angelfish⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Blue Flash Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara and Blue Flash Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Barb⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Clown Barb is a notorious fin-nipper — even though Electric Blue Acara is larger, an active shoal will harass its trailing fins. Only safe in a full group of 6+ with plenty of cover.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~132 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Clown Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Denison Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Expect Electric Blue Acara to harass Denison Barb at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Denison Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Dolphin Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~208 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Emperor Peacock Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Blue Acara 6–7.5 vs Emperor Peacock Cichlid 7.6–8.6) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Electric Blue Acara and Emperor Peacock Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~210 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Eureka Red Peacock Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (6–7.5 vs 7.8–8.6); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Blue Empress Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 18 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara and Fire Blue Empress Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~400 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Firemouth Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–29 °C (72–84 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara and Firemouth Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Giant Glass Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Expect Electric Blue Acara to harass Giant Glass Catfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~120 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Gold Zebra Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 25–29 °C (77–84 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~130 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Green Phantom Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Guyana Flag Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 18 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Moonlight Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Expect Electric Blue Acara to harass Moonlight Gourami at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Snowball Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Yoyo Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 15 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara and Yoyo Loach can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Blue Acara and Alligator Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Alligator Gar (250 cm) is big enough to swallow the 16 cm Electric Blue Acara whole.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara and Clown Knifefish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Clown Knifefish (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 16 cm Electric Blue Acara whole.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara is bite-sized to a 100 cm predatory fire eel — it will be eaten.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara is bite-sized to a 90 cm koi — it will be eaten.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Blue Acara and Redtail Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Electric Blue Acara is bite-sized to a 120 cm predatory redtail catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Blue Acara and Spotted Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Electric Blue Acara is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory spotted gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Blue Acara and Wels Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Wels Catfish (300 cm) is big enough to swallow the 16 cm Electric Blue Acara whole.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Electric Blue Acara and Wolf Cichlid are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Wolf Cichlid (72 cm) is big enough to swallow the 16 cm Electric Blue Acara whole.
- Your 115 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Electric Blue Acara care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Medium
- Max size
- 16 cm (6.3 in)
- Min tank size
- 115 L (30.4 gal)
- Temperature
- 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- pH
- 6–7.5
- Hardness
- 6–20 dGH
- Lifespan
- 8–10 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Middle
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Cichlidae
- Origin
- South America — Colombia and Venezuela (Trinidad populations also recorded)
What is an Electric Blue Acara?
The Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher) is a medium-sized South American cichlid prized for combining show-stopping colour with manageable behaviour. The body is densely covered in iridescent electric-blue scales that shift through turquoise and teal in different light. Adults reach up to 16 cm (6.3 in) and carry that colour across every fin.
Within the cichlid family it sits in a relatively relaxed corner: outside of breeding cycles it tolerates robust community fish of similar size, making it one of the most practical entry points into new-world cichlids.
Where do Electric Blue Acaras come from?
The species is native to South America — Colombia and Venezuela, with populations also recorded on Trinidad. Its natural habitat spans slow-moving rivers, streams, and backwater pools with warm, slightly soft water and sandy or silty substrates edged with roots and leaf litter. In the wild, Acaras forage through the substrate in the middle of the water column. Those origins should inform your aquascape: open sand in the centre for foraging, rocks and driftwood at the perimeter for territory and cover.
What size tank does an Electric Blue Acara need?
The minimum is 115 litres (30 gallons) for a single specimen or a bonded pair. Footprint matters more than raw volume — a long tank gives the pair separate visual zones and helps prevent constant confrontation.
For a community build, move up to 200 litres (55 gallons) or more so all species have enough territory. Use a sandy or fine-gravel substrate — Acaras dig, and coarse gravel can abrade their mouths and gill plates. Smooth rocks, flat slate, and robust driftwood complete the hardscape; edge plantings are welcome but not required.
What water parameters do Electric Blue Acaras need?
- Temperature: 22–28 °C (72–82 °F). They tolerate the cooler end of that range but are most active and colour-rich toward the middle — around 25 °C (77 °F).
- pH: 6.0–7.5. Mildly acidic to neutral water suits them best.
- Hardness: 6–20 dGH. They are adaptable across a fairly wide hardness range, which makes them workable in most tap-water conditions.
Stability is the priority. Cycle the tank fully before introducing fish, perform weekly partial water changes of 25–30%, and use a reliable thermometer. Wild-caught individuals from softer-water localities may prefer the lower end of the pH and hardness ranges; aquarium-bred stock — which is virtually all the trade — is generally more adaptable.
What do Electric Blue Acaras eat?
They are true omnivores and not at all fussy feeders. A high-quality cichlid pellet makes a sensible daily staple; supplement with frozen or live bloodworms, brine shrimp, and mysis shrimp several times per week — this variety supports colour and conditioning. Blanched vegetables such as peas or spinach provide useful plant matter that mirrors what the fish would process in the wild.
Feed once or twice daily, offering only what the fish will clear within two to three minutes. They have a habit of holding food and working it against the substrate, so sinking or slow-sinking pellets are preferable to floating foods. Remove uneaten material promptly; Acaras are messy eaters and a sand substrate can trap decomposing food if left unchecked.
Are Electric Blue Acaras aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
Electric Blue Acaras are classed as semi-aggressive, but in practical terms they sit at the gentler end of that category for most of the year. Outside of spawning, they ignore tankmates that are not small enough to be mistaken for food and not large enough to bully them.
Suitable companions include larger tetras (Congo tetras, bleeding-heart tetras), rainbowfish, robust barbs, corydoras catfish, and mid-sized plecos. Avoid small nano fish — anything under roughly 4 cm (1.5 in) risks being harassed or eaten. Equally, avoid very aggressive cichlids such as red devils or large Oscars that will intimidate or injure them.
The significant exception is breeding season. A bonded pair guarding a clutch becomes genuinely territorial: they will chase any fish that approaches the spawn site, and they are effective at it. Keep a spare tank or a divider on hand if you intend to breed them in a community setup.
For a filterable breakdown of species that work and species to avoid, see Electric Blue Acara tank mates.
How do you tell male and female Electric Blue Acaras apart?
Sexual dimorphism in this species is moderate and becomes clearer as fish approach maturity. Males grow noticeably larger — often 14–16 cm (5.5–6.3 in) compared to females’ 10–12 cm (4–4.7 in) — and develop distinctly pointed dorsal and anal fins, frequently with elongated filaments at the tips. Their overall build is blockier and more angular.
Females are smaller and rounder in the body, particularly around the abdomen when gravid. Their dorsal and anal fins remain rounder and shorter. In terms of colour, both sexes carry the signature electric-blue iridescence, though males often display slightly more intense colouration and more pronounced metallic sheen on the gill plates and forehead.
Juvenile sexing is unreliable; buying a group of six young fish and allowing natural pairing is the most practical route to getting a true pair.
How do Electric Blue Acaras breed?
Breeding is rated medium difficulty — straightforward in method but requiring some preparation. A proven pair will choose a flat surface — a smooth rock, a slate tile, or a cleared patch of bare substrate — and clean it meticulously before spawning. The female lays several hundred adhesive eggs in neat rows; both parents fertilise and guard the clutch, fanning the eggs with their fins to keep them oxygenated.
Eggs hatch in around 48–60 hours, and the parents move the wriggling larvae to a pre-dug pit in the substrate. The fry become free-swimming within another three to four days and accept newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii almost immediately — simpler than species requiring infusoria. Both parents herd stragglers and repel tankmates; if breeding in a community tank, use a partition to protect both the clutch and other inhabitants. Condition the pair with live or frozen foods and raise temperature to 26–28 °C (79–82 °F) to encourage spawning.
What are common Electric Blue Acara diseases?
Electric Blue Acaras are reasonably hardy in stable, well-maintained water, but share the vulnerabilities of most tropical cichlids.
Ich (white spot) — small white grains on fins and body — is the most common problem, usually triggered by temperature swings or stress. Hole-in-the-head disease (hexamitosis) causes pitting around the head and lateral line and is strongly linked to poor water quality and nutritional deficiencies. Bacterial fin damage typically follows territorial fights or chronically dirty water. External parasites such as flukes arrive with live foods or unquarantined fish.
Prevention: maintain the nitrogen cycle, do regular water changes, quarantine newcomers for at least two weeks, avoid sudden temperature drops, and feed a varied diet. Well-kept Acaras in clean water are rarely ill.
Health note: symptom identification and medication decisions are beyond the scope of a care profile. Confirm any diagnosis against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source before medicating.
How long do Electric Blue Acaras live?
With good care, Electric Blue Acaras live 8–10 years — a notably long lifespan that makes the investment in a proper setup well worthwhile. A settled pair can produce multiple spawns across many of those years. The path to the upper end of that range is consistent: stable, clean water in a suitably sized tank, a varied diet, and tankmates that do not create chronic stress. Start right and an Electric Blue Acara purchased as a juvenile can anchor a display tank for close to a decade.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Electric Blue Acara really peaceful enough for a community tank?
Yes, with the right tankmates. They are one of the calmest cichlids available, getting along well with similarly-sized robust fish — danios, larger tetras, rainbowfish, corydoras, and peaceful plecos. The catch: breeding pairs become strongly territorial around their spawn site, so have a backup plan (a divider or spare tank) if aggression spikes. Avoid keeping them with tiny nano fish they could bully, or with very aggressive cichlids that will stress them out.
How hard is it to breed Electric Blue Acaras?
Easier than most cichlids. A bonded pair will spawn on a flat rock or smooth substrate, fan and guard the eggs together, and herd the free-swimming fry as a team. The main hurdle is getting a true pair — buy a group of six juveniles and let them pair naturally. Water temperature at the warmer end of their range (26–28 °C) and high-quality live or frozen foods condition them into spawning mood. Fry are large enough to eat baby brine shrimp almost immediately.
What you need to keep a electric blue acara
The baseline is a heated, filtered 115 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 22–28 °C (72–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a electric blue acara in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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