Photo: Crotaphil (CC0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Tiger Badis (Badis kyar)
A jewel-toned micro-predator from Myanmar with bold tiger stripes — a captivating nano fish for the patient keeper.
Will it live with a Tiger Badis?
We compare each fish against your tiger badis on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- African Dwarf Frog✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Amano Shrimp✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 18–28 °C (64–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Axelrod's Cory✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Axelrod's Cory in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bandit Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Bandit Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Black Phantom Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Black Phantom Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Checkered Barb✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Checkered Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cherry Barb✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Cherry Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cochu's Blue Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Cochu's Blue Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Firehead Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Firehead Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Five-banded Barb✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Five-banded Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Forktail Blue-eye✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Forktail Blue-eye in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Gold Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Gold Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Half-striped Penguin Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Half-striped Penguin Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Harlequin Rasbora✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Harlequin Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Honey Gourami✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Horseman Cory✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Horseman Cory in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Japanese Trapdoor Snail✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 10–28 °C (50–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Julii Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–26 °C (73–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Julii Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Lemon Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Lemon Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Otocinclus✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 21–26 °C (70–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Otocinclus in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Tailspotted Oto✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 3.5 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 22–24 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Tailspotted Oto in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Tiger Otocinclus✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Tiger Otocinclus in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- X-ray Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep X-ray Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Yellow Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Yellow Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Amapá Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Amapá Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Amapá Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Black Darter Tetra⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 4 cm · Hard care · 21–28 °C (70–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Blue Danio⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 21–26 °C (70–79 °F)
- Tiger Badis and Blue Danio are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add blue danio in a group to spread the pressure.
- Keep Blue Danio in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Blue Emperor Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Blue Emperor Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Blue Emperor Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cardinal Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Cardinal Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Cardinal Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Emperor Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Emperor Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Emperor Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Flame Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Flame Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Flame Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Ghost Shrimp⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 18–28 °C (64–82 °F)
- Adult Ghost Shrimp might survive with Tiger Badis, but expect the young to be eaten — plant heavily.
- Keep Ghost Shrimp in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Glowlight Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Expect Tiger Badis to harass Glowlight Tetra at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Glowlight Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Golden Dwarf Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Golden Dwarf Barb — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Golden Dwarf Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Jelly Bean Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Jelly Bean Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Jelly Bean Tetra in a shoal of 10+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Marbled Hatchetfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Expect Tiger Badis to harass Marbled Hatchetfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Marbled Hatchetfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Phoenix Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Tiger Badis is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Phoenix Tetra — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Phoenix Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Purple Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Tiger Badis and Purple Tetra are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add purple tetra in a group to spread the pressure.
- Keep Purple Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Red Phantom Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Expect Tiger Badis to harass Red Phantom Tetra at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Red Phantom Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Rosy Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Tiger Badis and Rosy Tetra are close in size, but the semi-aggressive one tends to dominate — add rosy tetra in a group to spread the pressure.
- Keep Rosy Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Tiger Badis and Alligator Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Alligator Gar (250 cm) is big enough to swallow the 4 cm Tiger Badis whole.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Tiger Badis and Clown Knifefish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Size gap is too large (90 vs 4 cm): Clown Knifefish will treat Tiger Badis as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Tiger Badis is bite-sized to a 100 cm predatory fire eel — it will be eaten.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Koi (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 4 cm Tiger Badis whole.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Tiger Badis and Redtail Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (120 vs 4 cm): Redtail Catfish will treat Tiger Badis as food.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Tiger Badis and Spotted Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Tiger Badis is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory spotted gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Tiger Badis and Wels Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Tiger Badis is bite-sized to a 300 cm predatory wels catfish — it will be eaten.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Tiger Badis and Wolf Cichlid are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Wolf Cichlid (72 cm) is big enough to swallow the 4 cm Tiger Badis whole.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Tiger Badis care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Hard
- Max size
- 4 cm (1.6 in)
- Min tank size
- 57 L (15.1 gal)
- Temperature
- 22–24 °C (72–75 °F)
- pH
- 6.5–7.2
- Hardness
- 5–15 dGH
- Lifespan
- 5–8 years
- Diet
- Carnivore
- Swim level
- Bottom
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Badidae
- Origin
- Myanmar — Ayeyarwady river drainage
What is a Tiger Badis?
The Tiger Badis (Badis kyar) is a small, cryptically patterned freshwater fish from the Ayeyarwady river system in northern Myanmar. At a maximum of 4 cm (1.6 in), it is firmly in nano-fish territory, yet it carries the personality of a much larger predator — territorial, calculating and strikingly beautiful up close. The name kyar is Burmese for “tiger,” a fitting tribute to the bold dark vertical bars that cross its cream-to-tan body and extend as a broad band across the caudal fin.
B. kyar belongs to the family Badidae, a group of micro-predators sometimes called chameleon fish for their ability to intensify or pale their colours with mood. It differs from the more commonly kept Badis badis in having a more elongated profile, sharper barring and slightly cooler temperature preferences. The Tiger Badis is uncommon in the trade but increasingly sought after by nano-fish enthusiasts willing to meet its specific needs.
Where does the Tiger Badis come from?
Badis kyar is native to the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) river drainage in northern Myanmar. In the wild it inhabits slow-moving, shallow stretches with dense leaf litter, submerged roots and overhanging vegetation — environments that are dim, tannin-stained and rich in tiny invertebrate prey. The water there is cool, soft to moderately hard, and gently acidic to neutral.
Understanding this origin shapes every aspect of good husbandry: cool temperatures, low flow, dark substrate, lots of structure and a steady supply of live or frozen invertebrates.
What tank setup does a Tiger Badis need?
A minimum of 57 L (15 gal) is recommended, and a longer footprint matters more than height — this is a bottom-dweller that patrols horizontal territory. Fine sand or smooth gravel substrate is ideal; avoid sharp-edged gravel that can damage the fish’s underside as it forages.
Structure is essential. Provide driftwood, smooth river stones, half-broken clay pots and generous leaf litter (Indian almond or oak leaves work well). Shade-tolerant plants — Anubias, Microsorum, Taxiphyllum — add cover and help diffuse light. If keeping more than one individual, ensure there are enough distinct hiding spots that fish can break line of sight with each other. Filtration should produce very gentle flow; a sponge filter is ideal. A tightly fitting lid prevents escapes.
What water parameters does a Tiger Badis need?
- Temperature: 22–24 °C (72–75 °F) — notably cooler than most tropical fish; do not push this species into the high-20s.
- pH: 6.5–7.2, soft to neutral.
- Hardness: 5–15 dGH.
Stability is critical. Cycle the tank fully before introducing fish, and keep up with regular water changes to prevent organic buildup. Tannins from driftwood or leaf litter are beneficial — they buffer pH gently and replicate the natural environment. Avoid strong CO2 injection or heavy current. Because this species tolerates a narrow and relatively cool range, pairing it with high-temperature tropical species is a common and costly mistake.
What do Tiger Badis eat?
Tiger Badis are dedicated carnivores and notoriously reluctant to accept dry foods. Expect to feed live or frozen meaty items as the primary diet: daphnia, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, micro-worms and bloodworms are all accepted. Offer small portions once or twice daily; because these fish are slow, deliberate feeders, make sure food reaches the bottom where they hunt.
Building a live-food culture — daphnia or micro-worm — is strongly recommended. Frozen foods are the practical fallback. Some individuals can eventually be conditioned to accept high-quality frozen cyclops or small pellets, but this is the exception. Do not house them with fast, competitive feeders that will intercept food before it sinks.
How does a Tiger Badis behave, and what are compatible tank mates?
Tiger Badis are semi-aggressive in a specific, territory-based way: males claim small patches of the bottom and defend them against rivals. Aggression between males is mostly display and bluffing rather than sustained fighting, provided the tank has enough visual barriers. Inter-male conflict is easily managed with sufficient space and structure.
Their shyness is the bigger challenge in a community setting. They will retreat from fast, boisterous or bold species, and they will go hungry if outcompeted at feeding time. Ideal companions share none of those traits: small, peaceful fish occupying the upper water column — celestial pearl danios, ember tetras, sparkling gouramis, small rasboras or pencilfish — leave the bottom zone to the badis without competing for food. Dwarf shrimp (cherry shrimp, amano shrimp) may be picked off; small snails are generally tolerated.
For a curated, filterable list of compatible species, see Tiger Badis tank mates.
How do you tell male from female Tiger Badis?
Sexual dimorphism is clear in adults. Males are slimmer and significantly more colourful, displaying intense dark barring against a vivid background that can shift from cream to gold to olive depending on mood and condition. The barring extends prominently into the caudal fin. Females are noticeably plumper — especially when gravid — and considerably duller, with softer, less defined bars. Females also tend to show a rounder belly profile even when not carrying eggs.
Distinguishing juveniles is harder; wait until fish are close to adult size before attempting to sex them.
How do Tiger Badis breed?
Breeding is rated hard and is not a casual undertaking. The species is a cavity spawner: the male courts the female and, once spawning occurs in a tight space (a cave, hollow tube or upturned flower pot), he guards and tends the eggs until they hatch. The pair must be conditioned on a rich live-food diet for several weeks before any spawning attempt.
A dedicated breeding tank of around 40–57 L (10–15 gal), dimly lit, with multiple spawning caves and very soft, slightly acidic water, gives the best results. After spawning, remove the female to prevent the guarding male from harassing her. Fry are tiny and require infusoria or freshly hatched baby brine shrimp as first foods. Success rates are low even for experienced breeders, and the species is rarely bred in captivity.
What diseases are common in Tiger Badis?
The most likely health problems are ich (white spots, triggered by chilling or stress), bacterial infections from poor water quality, and internal parasites in wild-caught specimens. Because Tiger Badis are often imported wild-caught, a quarantine period of at least four weeks in a separate tank before introduction is strongly advisable.
Prevention is straightforward: stable cool water, regular water changes, appropriate feeding, and not overstocking. Avoid sudden temperature swings — this species is particularly vulnerable to chilling given its narrow temperature window.
Health note: medication dosing and disease diagnosis are beyond the scope of a care profile. For sick fish, confirm symptoms against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source before treating.
How long does a Tiger Badis live?
With attentive care and appropriate conditions, Badis kyar can live 5–8 years — a respectable lifespan for such a small fish. The keys are consistent cool temperatures, a varied live-food diet, low stress from over-crowding or incompatible tank mates, and regular maintenance. Wild-caught individuals may need extra attention in the first months to clear parasites and acclimate to captive conditions, but once settled they are generally robust and long-lived.
Frequently asked questions
Can Tiger Badis be kept with other fish?
Yes, but choose tank-mates carefully. Badis kyar is shy and will be outcompeted for food by fast or bold species. Small, peaceful nano fish that occupy the upper water column — such as small rasboras or pencilfish — work well. Avoid nippy or boisterous companions.
What do Tiger Badis eat?
They are dedicated carnivores that strongly prefer live or frozen meaty foods: daphnia, baby brine shrimp, cyclops and micro-worms. Dry foods are usually refused, so plan to offer live or frozen items daily.
What you need to keep a tiger badis
The baseline is a heated, filtered 57 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 22–24 °C (72–75 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a tiger badis in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases — buying through these links costs you nothing extra.
