Photo: Wikimedia Commons contributor (CC BY-SA 3.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)
The planted-tank algae cleanup champion — bigger, hardier and more betta-proof than a cherry shrimp.
Will it live with a Amano Shrimp?
We compare each fish against your amano shrimp on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- African Dwarf Frog✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Amapá Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–27 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Amapá Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Black Phantom Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Black Phantom Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Blood Red Tiger Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6 cm · Medium care · 24–29 °C (75–84 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Blue Danio✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 21–26 °C (70–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 21–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Blue Danio in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Blue Emperor Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Blue Emperor Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cardinal Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–27 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Cardinal Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Emperor Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Emperor Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Flame Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Flame Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Glowlight Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 22–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Glowlight Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Gold Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Gold Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Golden Dwarf Barb✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Golden Dwarf Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Hillstream Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6 cm · Hard care · 20–24 °C (68–75 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Jelly Bean Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 20–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Jelly Bean Tetra in a shoal of 10+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Lemon Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Lemon Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Marbled Hatchetfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Marbled Hatchetfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Otocinclus✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 21–26 °C (70–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 21–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Otocinclus in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Panda Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6 cm · Hard care · 18–23 °C (64–73 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 18–23 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Phoenix Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Phoenix Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Purple Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 22–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Purple Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Red Phantom Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Red Phantom Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Rosy Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep Rosy Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- X-ray Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Keep X-ray Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Yellow Tetra✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 4.5 cm · Easy care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Both are peaceful, and their water overlaps around 20–25 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Yellow Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Axelrod's Cory⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Adult Amano Shrimp might survive with Axelrod's Cory, but expect the young to be eaten — plant heavily.
- Keep Axelrod's Cory in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bandit Corydoras⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Bandit Corydoras may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Bandit Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Blue Turbo Snail⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Blue Turbo Snail may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Checkered Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Adult Amano Shrimp might survive with Checkered Barb, but expect the young to be eaten — plant heavily.
- Keep Checkered Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cherry Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Cherry Barb may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Cherry Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Chocolate Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Hard care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Amano Shrimp 6.5–7.5 vs Chocolate Gourami 4–6) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- One likes softer water and the other harder (6–15 vs 0–5 dGH) — a compromise, not a perfect match.
- Chocolate Gourami may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Chocolate Gourami in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Cochu's Blue Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Cochu's Blue Tetra may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Cochu's Blue Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Firehead Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Firehead Tetra may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Firehead Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Five-banded Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Five-banded Barb may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Five-banded Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Forktail Blue-eye⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Forktail Blue-eye may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Forktail Blue-eye in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Half-striped Penguin Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Half-striped Penguin Tetra may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Half-striped Penguin Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Harlequin Rasbora⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Adult Amano Shrimp might survive with Harlequin Rasbora, but expect the young to be eaten — plant heavily.
- Keep Harlequin Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Honey Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Adult Amano Shrimp might survive with Honey Gourami, but expect the young to be eaten — plant heavily.
- Horseman Cory⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Horseman Cory may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Keep Horseman Cory in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Humpbacked Tetra⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 5 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Humpbacked Tetra may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~80 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Humpbacked Tetra in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Wine Red Betta⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 5 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- One likes softer water and the other harder (6–15 vs 0–4 dGH) — a compromise, not a perfect match.
- Wine Red Betta may eat Amano Shrimp or pick off its shrimplets — a densely planted tank with moss gives them a fighting chance.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Alligator Gar will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Clown Knifefish will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Fire Eel will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Nile Bichir⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 70 cm · Medium care · 25–28 °C (77–82 °F)
- Nile Bichir will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~450 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Redtail Catfish will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Spotted Gar will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Wels Catfish will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Wolf Cichlid will hunt and eat Amano Shrimp — keep shrimp only with small, peaceful, non-predatory fish.
- Your 75 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Amano Shrimp care specs
- Care level
- Easy
- Breeding
- Very Hard
- Max size
- 5 cm (2 in)
- Min tank size
- 38 L (10 gal)
- Temperature
- 18–28 °C (64–82 °F)
- pH
- 6.5–7.5
- Hardness
- 6–15 dGH
- Lifespan
- 2–3 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Bottom
- Group size
- 3+ (shoaling)
- Family
- Atyidae
- Origin
- Japan and Taiwan
What is an Amano Shrimp?
The Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata) is the algae-eating workhorse that aquascaper Takashi Amano popularised in the 1990s — and the species still bears his name in common use. Native to Japan and Taiwan, it is the largest of the commonly kept freshwater dwarf shrimp, reaching up to 5 cm (2 in), which gives it a meaningful size advantage over cherry shrimp and most other Neocaridina species.
Its translucent grey-green body is marked by a distinctive row of dots (or short dashes in females) running along the lateral line — understated but elegant under good lighting. Unlike many aquarium shrimp kept for colour, the Amano shrimp earns its place by working: it grazes hair algae, thread algae, biofilm and uneaten food almost continuously throughout the day, making it one of the most genuinely useful invertebrates in the hobby.
Because juveniles are not easy to raise in freshwater (see Breeding below), Amano shrimp sold in stores are nearly always wild-caught or farm-raised to adult size, meaning they are typically robust and ready to get to work from day one.
Where do Amano Shrimp come from?
Wild Caridina multidentata are found in the freshwater streams and rivers of Japan and Taiwan, particularly in clear, well-oxygenated coastal streams. Their natural habitat features moderate current, dense vegetation or algae-covered rocks, cool-to-warm temperatures, and water that is slightly hard and near neutral in pH.
This origin is important for two reasons. First, it explains their tolerance for a relatively wide temperature range — 18–28 °C (64–82 °F) — making them unusually adaptable compared to many other shrimp. Second, it explains their complex breeding cycle: the larvae are carried downstream to brackish estuaries to develop, which is why captive freshwater breeding is so difficult (and so rare).
What Size Tank do Amano Shrimp Need?
The minimum practical tank size is 38 litres (10 gallons). A larger, well-established tank is strongly preferred. Amano shrimp are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite spikes, and a small tank cycles through waste faster and leaves less margin for error. In a planted aquarium of 60 litres (16 gallons) or more, water chemistry stays stable and the shrimp have sufficient surface area to graze.
Aim for a mature tank — ideally one that has been running for several months and has established biofilm and some algae growth. Adding Amano shrimp to a brand-new tank often ends in losses even when the nitrogen cycle reads as complete, because the microbial buffering and food sources that come with age are not yet present.
Tank shape matters less than for fish, but a wider footprint is better than a tall column — more floor and plant surface means more foraging ground. A fine-grained or smooth substrate, plenty of live plants, and some driftwood or rocks for cover and grazing will keep them occupied and confident.
What Water Parameters do Amano Shrimp Need?
- Temperature: 18–28 °C (64–82 °F). They cope well at cooler ends of that range and can be kept without a heater in many temperate climates, though a heater set around 22–24 °C (72–75 °F) removes the risk of cold snaps.
- pH: 6.5–7.5. Neutral water is the sweet spot; avoid acidic conditions below 6.5, which can stress the exoskeleton over time.
- Hardness: 6–15 dGH. Amano shrimp need some dissolved minerals for successful moulting. Water that is too soft increases moulting problems.
- Ammonia / Nitrite: Zero. Non-negotiable for any shrimp.
- Nitrate: Keep below 20 ppm with regular water changes.
The single biggest killer of Amano shrimp is copper, which is lethal to all invertebrates even at trace concentrations. Check every plant fertiliser and medication before adding it to a tank housing shrimp — many off-the-shelf products contain copper or copper compounds.
What do Amano Shrimp Eat?
Amano shrimp are omnivores and efficient opportunistic grazers. In a planted tank they will consume hair algae, thread algae, green dust algae, biofilm, decomposing plant matter, uneaten fish food and almost any organic debris that settles to the bottom or clings to surfaces.
In a well-stocked planted tank they may need little supplemental feeding, but it is good practice to add a small sinking wafer or algae tablet once or twice a week, especially in new or lightly planted tanks with less natural food. Blanched vegetables — zucchini, spinach, cucumber — are also accepted and provide variety.
Avoid overfeeding supplemental foods: Amano shrimp are most active and most useful as cleaners when they have some grazing pressure. If they are ignoring offered food, that is generally a sign the tank is providing enough naturally, which is fine.
Are Amano Shrimp Aggressive — and What Fish Can Live with Them?
Amano shrimp are entirely peaceful and pose no threat to any tankmate. They will occasionally squabble briefly over a food item, but this is fleeting and causes no harm.
The real question is which fish are safe with them. Their 5 cm (2 in) adult size makes them safer than cherry shrimp around medium-sized peaceful fish, but they are still invertebrates and will be eaten by any fish large or aggressive enough to attempt it. Ideal tankmates are small, calm community fish: tetras, rasboras, corydoras, otocinclus, small danios, and similarly sized peaceful species. Avoid cichlids, large gouramis, goldfish, pufferfish, and any species with a known appetite for invertebrates.
Even with a betta, adult Amano shrimp often coexist without being eaten — their size is usually a deterrent — but individual betta temperament varies, so watch closely when first introducing them.
For a full rundown of what pairs well, see Amano Shrimp tank mates.
How do Amano Shrimp Molt — and What Does it Mean?
For invertebrates like the Amano shrimp, moulting (shedding the exoskeleton) is the equivalent of the sexual-dimorphism section in fish profiles — it is one of the most commonly misunderstood and often alarming behaviours new keepers encounter.
Amano shrimp moult roughly every four to eight weeks as they grow, or after significant stress. Before a moult the shrimp may hide and appear lethargic. The shed exoskeleton — an intact ghost-white shell — is often discovered and mistaken for a dead shrimp. Leave it in the tank: the shrimp will eat it to reclaim minerals.
Immediately after moulting the shrimp is soft and vulnerable for several hours. It will hide during this time. Ensure the tank has adequate hardness (6–15 dGH) and no copper, as mineral-deficient or contaminated water leads to failed moults, where the shrimp cannot pull free and dies. This is the most common moulting-related loss in Amano shrimp husbandry.
How do Amano Shrimp Breed?
In short: very rarely in home aquaria, which is why breeding difficulty is rated Very Hard.
In the wild, C. multidentata is a catadromous breeder — females carry eggs, which hatch into larvae that require brackish water to develop through their planktonic larval stages before the juveniles transition back to freshwater. Without access to brackish water (salinity around 1.010–1.015 SG), the larvae die within days.
Dedicated breeders have succeeded by setting up separate brackish rearing tanks, carefully collecting larvae, and raising them through multiple larval stages on phytoplankton and microalgae over roughly four to six weeks. It is a technically demanding process far outside the scope of a standard community tank setup.
For most keepers, Amano shrimp are purchased as adults and not expected to breed. A group of three or more will display normal courtship behaviour — females releasing pheromones after moulting, males becoming visibly active — but the resulting larvae will not survive without brackish rearing.
What are Common Amano Shrimp Diseases?
Amano shrimp are hardy when water quality is maintained, but a few problems recur in keeper reports:
Copper poisoning is the most common cause of sudden unexplained shrimp death. Trace amounts from fertilisers, medications, pipes, or even some ornaments are lethal. Always verify product labels before adding anything to a shrimp tank.
Failed moulting (getting stuck in the old shell) is usually caused by insufficient hardness, low iodine (naturally present in many water supplies but worth checking if problems persist), or poor overall water quality. Maintaining the 6–15 dGH hardness range prevents most cases.
Bacterial infections can occur in stressed or newly introduced shrimp. Rust-coloured spots or unusual lethargy in an otherwise healthy tank are warning signs. Improving water quality is the first response.
Parasites such as Vorticella (white fuzzy tufts on the body) occasionally appear on stressed shrimp. Improving water flow and quality usually resolves mild cases.
Health note: disease diagnosis in invertebrates can be tricky, and treatments safe for fish are frequently lethal to shrimp. Confirm any diagnosis against a reputable aquatic veterinary or shrimp-keeping resource before treating, and always remove shrimp to a separate vessel if using any medication in the main tank.
How Long do Amano Shrimp Live?
With good care, Amano shrimp live 2–3 years. This is shorter than many fishkeepers expect given the shrimp’s size and robustness. Because most are sold as adults of unknown age, some losses in the first year simply reflect the natural end of a shrimp’s lifespan rather than a husbandry failure.
The longest-lived Amano shrimp in well-documented keeper reports have reached around three years. Stable water quality, a mature tank, a varied diet and freedom from copper or other toxins are the key factors that push individuals toward the upper end of that range.
Frequently asked questions
Are amano shrimp better than cherry shrimp with bettas?
Often, yes. At 5 cm an adult amano is too big for most bettas to swallow, while tiny cherry shrimp and their babies are easy prey. In a planted tank, amanos are one of the more betta-tolerant invertebrates.
Will amano shrimp breed in my tank?
Almost never. Their larvae need brackish water to develop, so a colony won't establish in freshwater the way cherry shrimp do — you buy amanos as cleaners, not breeders.
What you need to keep a amano shrimp
The baseline is a heated, filtered 38 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 18–28 °C (64–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a amano shrimp in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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