Photo: Vlad Butsky from San Jose, CA, USA (CC BY 2.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Electric Yellow Cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus)
The mbuna that plays well with others: a blazing yellow, rock-dwelling cichlid from Lake Malawi that delivers big personality without maximum mayhem.
Will it live with a Electric Yellow Cichlid?
We compare each fish against your electric yellow cichlid on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Blue Turbo Snail✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Boesemani Rainbowfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 11 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Boesemani Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Corydoras Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Corydoras Catfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Denison Barb✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–25 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Keep Denison Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Japanese Trapdoor Snail✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 5 cm · Easy care · 10–28 °C (50–82 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Murray River Rainbowfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 11 cm · Easy care · 15–26 °C (59–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Keep Murray River Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Panda Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6 cm · Hard care · 18–23 °C (64–73 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–23 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Spotfin Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 6.5 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Spotfin Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Upside-down Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Semi-aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Afra Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Keep Afra Cichlid in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bearded Corydoras⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Bearded Corydoras 6–7.6) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Clown Rasbora⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Clown Rasbora 5.5–7) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Expect Electric Yellow Cichlid to harass Clown Rasbora at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Clown Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Daffodil Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–27 °C (73–81 °F)
- Electric Yellow Cichlid and Daffodil Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Giant Danio⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 20–27 °C (68–81 °F)
- Different pH ranges (7.8–8.9 vs 6.5–7.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Expect Electric Yellow Cichlid to harass Giant Danio at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Giant Danio in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Golden Wonder Killifish⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (7.8–8.9 vs 6–7.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Keyhole Cichlid⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Keyhole Cichlid 6–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Electric Yellow Cichlid is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Keyhole Cichlid — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Kribensis⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Kribensis 6–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Electric Yellow Cichlid and Kribensis can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Kuhli Loach⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Different pH ranges (7.8–8.9 vs 5.5–7); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Water hardness preferences differ (Electric Yellow Cichlid 10–20 vs Kuhli Loach 1–8 dGH).
- Molly⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Expect Electric Yellow Cichlid to harass Molly at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Porthole Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Porthole Catfish 6–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Rosy Barb⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Keep Rosy Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Rusty Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Yellow Cichlid and Rusty Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Tanganyikan Butterfly Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Yellow Cichlid and Tanganyikan Butterfly Cichlid can both be territorial; doable with space and dense planting, but watch for chasing.
- Topaz Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Different pH ranges (7.8–8.9 vs 6.5–7.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Zebra Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Hard care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Zebra Pleco 6.5–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Yellow Cichlid and Alligator Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Electric Yellow Cichlid is bite-sized to a 250 cm predatory alligator gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Yellow Cichlid and Clown Knifefish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Clown Knifefish (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 10 cm Electric Yellow Cichlid whole.
- Different pH ranges (7.8–8.9 vs 6–7.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Electric Yellow Cichlid is bite-sized to a 100 cm predatory fire eel — it will be eaten.
- Different pH ranges (7.8–8.9 vs 6.5–7.5); doable if you sit in the shared band, but not ideal long-term.
- Both are a bit pushy (semi-aggressive + semi-aggressive) — workable only in a larger tank with cover and broken sight lines.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Koi (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 10 cm Electric Yellow Cichlid whole.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Yellow Cichlid and Redtail Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Redtail Catfish (120 cm) is big enough to swallow the 10 cm Electric Yellow Cichlid whole.
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Redtail Catfish 6–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Yellow Cichlid and Spotted Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Electric Yellow Cichlid is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory spotted gar — it will be eaten.
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Spotted Gar 6.5–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Electric Yellow Cichlid and Wels Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (300 vs 10 cm): Wels Catfish will treat Electric Yellow Cichlid as food.
- pH preferences only just meet (Electric Yellow Cichlid 7.8–8.9 vs Wels Catfish 6.5–7.5) — target the overlap and acclimate slowly.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Electric Yellow Cichlid and Wolf Cichlid are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Electric Yellow Cichlid is bite-sized to a 72 cm predatory wolf cichlid — it will be eaten.
- Your 200 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Electric Yellow Cichlid care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Medium
- Max size
- 10 cm (3.9 in)
- Min tank size
- 200 L (52.8 gal)
- Temperature
- 23–26 °C (73–79 °F)
- pH
- 7.8–8.9
- Hardness
- 10–20 dGH
- Lifespan
- 6–10 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Bottom
- Group size
- 3+ (shoaling)
- Family
- Cichlidae
- Origin
- Lake Malawi, East Africa — naturally most common around Lion's Cove on the western shoreline
What is an Electric Yellow Cichlid?
The Electric Yellow Cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus) is a rock-dwelling mbuna cichlid from Lake Malawi, East Africa, and one of the best entry points into African rift-lake fishkeeping. Its common name is earned: the fish is a solid, unwavering lemon-yellow from snout to tail, with a crisp black edging along the dorsal fin and black pelvic fins — a colour combination that stands out against any aquascape. Adults reach about 10 cm (4 in), making this a compact species for the cichlid world.
What sets the Yellow Lab apart within the mbuna group is its comparatively relaxed temperament. Most mbuna are relentlessly territorial; Labidochromis caeruleus is semi-aggressive — assertive enough to hold its place in a mixed cichlid tank without the constant aggression that makes some mbuna difficult to manage. For a keeper stepping into African cichlids for the first time, that distinction matters.
Where do Electric Yellow Cichlids come from?
The species is endemic to Lake Malawi, one of the African Great Lakes and the world’s ninth-largest lake by area. Within that enormous lake, Labidochromis caeruleus has a surprisingly restricted natural range, with the largest wild populations concentrated around Lion’s Cove on the western shoreline. It lives exclusively in the rocky littoral zone, weaving through boulder piles and crevices in the top few metres of water where sunlight penetrates and biofilm grows densely on the rock surfaces.
Lake Malawi is geologically ancient and chemically stable. Its water is hard, alkaline, warm and exceptionally clear — conditions almost the opposite of the soft, acidic water favoured by South American cichlids. Every care decision for this species flows from that origin: alkaline pH, high mineral hardness, stable warmth, and a tank interior that mimics a rocky underwater cliff face.
What size tank does an Electric Yellow Cichlid need?
The minimum recommended tank volume is 200 litres (53 gallons), and that figure assumes a small group — the minimum sensible group size is three fish (ideally one male with two or more females). A larger tank, 300–400 L (80–105 gal), gives you more flexibility to add other mbuna species and reduces territorial pressure.
Footprint matters as much as volume. A tank that is long and wide gives fish territory to patrol and enough distance for subordinate fish to move away from a dominant male. A standard 120 cm (48 in) footprint is workable at 200 L; 150 cm (60 in) is more comfortable for a mixed mbuna community.
Aquascape heavily with rock. Stack limestone, lava rock or ocean rock into caves, arches and crevices that reach near the waterline. Leave an open sandy substrate — fine sand or coral sand works well and buffers the pH. Avoid dense planting; Lake Malawi’s littoral zone is mostly bare rock, and mbuna will uproot plants anyway.
What water parameters do Electric Yellow Cichlids need?
Lake Malawi’s chemistry is their baseline, and replicating it closely keeps the fish healthy and reduces stress:
- Temperature: 23–26 °C (73–79 °F). Stable is more important than precision — sudden drops below 22 °C suppress immunity and trigger disease.
- pH: 7.8–8.9. Anything below 7.5 causes chronic stress over time. Crushed coral substrate or limestone rock helps buffer pH upward naturally.
- Hardness: 10–20 dGH. Soft water is a common mistake — these fish need mineral-rich water.
Test water weekly, especially for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Mbuna are heavy waste producers; even a well-filtered tank needs a 25–30% water change each week to keep nitrates below 20 ppm. High nitrate is a primary driver of Malawi bloat. Use a canister or sump filter rated for at least twice the tank volume per hour.
What do Electric Yellow Cichlids eat?
In the wild, Labidochromis caeruleus forages across rock surfaces, scraping off invertebrates, small crustaceans and biofilm. This makes them omnivores with a strong lean toward animal protein — unlike some mbuna that are predominantly algivorous, Yellow Labs handle protein well as long as mammalian fat sources are excluded.
In the aquarium, a quality cichlid pellet or mbuna omnivore pellet should form the staple — look for formulations with a moderate protein content and spirulina as a component. Supplement two or three times a week with frozen foods: mysis shrimp, daphnia or brine shrimp are all appropriate. Spirulina flake is a useful addition.
Avoid beef heart, bloodworms as a staple, and any high-fat mammalian proteins. These are strongly associated with Malawi bloat, a potentially fatal digestive condition in this family. Feed small portions two to three times daily and remove uneaten food within a few minutes to keep water quality high.
Are Electric Yellow Cichlids aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
The Yellow Lab is semi-aggressive, which in mbuna terms is actually mild. Males are territorial and will assert dominance over their patch of rock, but persistent, injurious fights are far less common than with harder mbuna species. The typical dynamic is display, chasing and submission rather than fin-shredding.
Managing aggression comes down to stocking strategy:
- Keep at least one male to two females, ideally one to three or four. Multiple females spread the male’s attention so no single fish is harassed relentlessly.
- Mix with other semi-aggressive mbuna of similar size — Cynotilapia afra, Iodotropheus sprengerae (Rusty Cichlid) and Pseudotropheus acei are commonly recommended companions.
- Avoid pairing with very peaceful species (which will be bullied) or with larger, highly aggressive mbuna (which will bully the Yellow Lab).
- Slightly overstock and break sightlines with dense rockwork. Counter-intuitively, a few extra fish spread aggression more evenly and no individual gets fixated on a single target.
Do not mix with fish that need soft, acidic water — water chemistry requirements are incompatible, and one set of fish will be compromised.
For a full breakdown of compatible and incompatible species, see Electric Yellow Cichlid tank mates.
How do you tell male and female Electric Yellow Cichlids apart?
Sexing is moderately straightforward in adult fish. Males are larger — closer to the 10 cm (4 in) maximum — and their yellow colouration is more intense and saturated. The most reliable marker is the egg-spots on the anal fin: males have prominent, clearly defined orange-yellow spots that serve as a breeding cue. Males also tend to be bolder and more actively territorial.
Females are slightly smaller and their yellow is a touch paler, though still vivid compared to most aquarium fish. The anal-fin egg-spots are absent or faint. A brooding female is immediately obvious: she holds eggs and then fry in her buccal cavity (mouth), giving her a distended lower jaw and making her reluctant to feed during the mouthbrooding period.
Juvenile fish are difficult to sex reliably; wait until they are at least 5–6 cm (2–2.5 in) before making confident judgements.
How do Electric Yellow Cichlids breed?
Labidochromis caeruleus is a maternal mouthbrooder, which is the standard breeding strategy across most Lake Malawi cichlids. The process unfolds as follows:
The male courts a receptive female with intensified colour, fin-spreading displays and circling behaviour near a chosen patch of substrate. After spawning, the female collects the eggs in her mouth immediately. She then mouths at the male’s egg-spots on the anal fin, stimulating him to release sperm, which fertilises the eggs already in her buccal cavity. This “lekking” strategy is why egg-spots exist.
The female carries the eggs and then developing fry for approximately three weeks, eating little or nothing during this period. Once she releases the free-swimming fry, they are immediately mobile and large enough to accept micro-pellets and baby brine shrimp.
In a community mbuna tank, survival of fry is low — other fish will eat them. To raise a batch, move the brooding female to a separate tank a week or two into her brooding period, or provide dense rockwork caves where released fry can shelter. Breeding difficulty is rated medium: spawning occurs readily in a well-maintained tank, but fry survival requires intervention.
What are common Electric Yellow Cichlid diseases?
The primary disease concern for all Malawi cichlids is Malawi bloat — a digestive and internal bacterial condition linked to a high-protein or high-fat diet, poor water quality, or stress. Symptoms include a visibly swollen abdomen, loss of appetite, rapid breathing and hovering near the surface. Prevention is straightforward: feed appropriate foods (no beef heart, no staple bloodworms), maintain low nitrates, and reduce stocking stress.
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) presents as fine white spots across the body and fins and is typically triggered by temperature instability or the introduction of infected fish. Hole-in-the-head disease (hexamita-linked pitting on the head and lateral line) is associated with nutritional deficiency and poor water quality. Bacterial infections causing fin damage or ulcers usually follow injuries from tank-mate aggression and are prevented by resolving the aggression source.
Tuberculosis (fish TB) is rare but worth knowing about: unexplained wasting, lesions and chronic decline in a single fish in an otherwise healthy tank is a warning sign; isolate affected fish promptly.
Health note: disease diagnosis and medication selection are beyond the scope of a care profile. If a fish shows persistent or worsening symptoms, confirm the diagnosis against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source before medicating — several mbuna diseases can look similar at first presentation.
How long do Electric Yellow Cichlids live?
A well-kept Electric Yellow Cichlid lives 6–10 years, making it a genuine long-term commitment. That lifespan is achievable with consistent water quality, a suitable diet, and a compatible tank-mate community that keeps chronic stress low. Fish kept in cramped tanks, with poor filtration or with overly aggressive companions rarely reach the upper end of that range.
Because Labidochromis caeruleus is widely bred in captivity, most fish sold in stores are captive-bred rather than wild-caught — which is good news for disease resistance and acclimation. Captive-bred fish are typically hardier than wild imports and adapt quickly to aquarium life, provided the water chemistry meets the alkaline, hard baseline the species requires.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Electric Yellow Cichlid really suitable for a mixed African cichlid tank?
Yes — it is one of the most beginner-friendly mbuna. It is semi-aggressive rather than outright aggressive, which means it holds its own but rarely shreds tank mates. Pair it with other medium-sized mbuna of similar disposition (Cynotilapia, Iodotropheus) and avoid very passive species or fish small enough to be bullied. Overcrowding slightly and breaking sightlines with stacked rockwork reduces territorial fixation. A single dominant male with two or three females works best.
What do Electric Yellow Cichlids eat, and can you feed them pellets?
In the wild they pick invertebrates from biofilm on rocks — they are not strict vegetarians like some mbuna. In the aquarium a high-quality omnivore or cichlid pellet forms the staple, supplemented with occasional frozen mysis shrimp, daphnia or spirulina flake. Avoid beef heart and high-fat mammal proteins, which can cause Malawi bloat. Feed small amounts two or three times daily and remove uneaten food to keep nitrates low.
What you need to keep a electric yellow cichlid
The baseline is a heated, filtered 200 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 23–26 °C (73–79 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a electric yellow cichlid in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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