Arrowhead Puffer (Pao suvattii)
A sand-burying ambush hunter from the Mekong — motionless for hours, then strikes in a flash.
Will it live with a Arrowhead Puffer?
We compare each fish against your arrowhead puffer on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Banjo Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Bearded Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 18–24 °C (64–75 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–24 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Bearded Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Black Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Bolivian Ram✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Bristlenose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 23–30 °C (73–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Burmese Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Clown Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Giant Glass Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Giant Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Kuhli Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Leopard Frog Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 25–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–28 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Medusa Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 26–28 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Moonlight Gourami✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Pantanal Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Pantanal Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Peppered Corydoras✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 7 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Keep Peppered Corydoras in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Porthole Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Rubber Lip Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Spotted Rubbernose Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Striped Eel Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Upside-down Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 23–26 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Zebra Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 9 cm · Medium care · 23–26 °C (73–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 23–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Zebra Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 10 cm · Hard care · 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Both favour the bottom of the tank — offer enough cover so they aren't always in each other's space.
- Amazon Puffer⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Expect Arrowhead Puffer to harass Amazon Puffer at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Amazon Puffer in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Bamboo Shrimp⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 8 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Expect Arrowhead Puffer to harass Bamboo Shrimp at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Adult Bamboo Shrimp might survive with Arrowhead Puffer, but expect the young to be eaten — plant heavily.
- Boesemani Rainbowfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 11 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Boesemani Rainbowfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Boesemani Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Brilliant Rasbora⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Expect Arrowhead Puffer to harass Brilliant Rasbora at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Brilliant Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Clown Rasbora⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Medium care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Expect Arrowhead Puffer to harass Clown Rasbora at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Clown Rasbora in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Denison Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Denison Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Giant Betta⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Expect Arrowhead Puffer to harass Giant Betta at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Giant Danio⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 20–27 °C (68–81 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Giant Danio — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Giant Danio in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Keyhole Cichlid⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Keyhole Cichlid — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Mascara Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Mascara Barb are close in size, but the aggressive one tends to dominate — add mascara barb in a group to spread the pressure.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Keep Mascara Barb in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Molly⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 10 cm · Easy care · 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Molly are close in size, but the aggressive one tends to dominate — add molly in a group to spread the pressure.
- Murray River Rainbowfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 11 cm · Easy care · 15–26 °C (59–79 °F)
- Expect Arrowhead Puffer to harass Murray River Rainbowfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Keep Murray River Rainbowfish in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Pearl Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Pearl Gourami — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Silver Tetra⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Silver Tetra are close in size, but the aggressive one tends to dominate — add silver tetra in a group to spread the pressure.
- Keep Silver Tetra in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Snowball Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~150 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Thick-lipped Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 9 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Thick-lipped Gourami are close in size, but the aggressive one tends to dominate — add thick-lipped gourami in a group to spread the pressure.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Alligator Gar are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Arrowhead Puffer is bite-sized to a 250 cm predatory alligator gar — it will be eaten.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Arrowhead Puffer and Clown Knifefish will hold territory and clash.
- Clown Knifefish (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 12 cm Arrowhead Puffer whole.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Arrowhead Puffer and Fire Eel will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (100 vs 12 cm): Fire Eel will treat Arrowhead Puffer as food.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Koi (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 12 cm Arrowhead Puffer whole.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Mekong Giant Catfish⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 20–28 °C (68–82 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Mekong Giant Catfish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~100000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Redtail Catfish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Size gap is too large (120 vs 12 cm): Redtail Catfish will treat Arrowhead Puffer as food.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Spotted Gar are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Spotted Gar (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 12 cm Arrowhead Puffer whole.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Arrowhead Puffer and Wels Catfish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Size gap is too large (300 vs 12 cm): Wels Catfish will treat Arrowhead Puffer as food.
- Your 132 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Arrowhead Puffer care specs
- Care level
- Hard
- Breeding
- Very Hard
- Max size
- 12 cm (4.7 in)
- Min tank size
- 132 L (34.9 gal)
- Temperature
- 23–28 °C (73–82 °F)
- pH
- 6.7–7.7
- Hardness
- 5–15 dGH
- Lifespan
- 5–10 years
- Diet
- Carnivore
- Swim level
- Bottom
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Tetraodontidae
- Origin
- Southeast Asia — Mekong and Chao Phraya river basins (Thailand, Laos, Cambodia)
What is an Arrowhead Puffer?
The arrowhead puffer (Pao suvattii), also called the pignose puffer or Mekong arrowhead puffer, is a fully freshwater pufferfish from the sandy riverbeds of the Mekong and Chao Phraya river basins in Southeast Asia. It grows to around 12 cm (5 in) and earns its common name from its flattened, wedge-shaped head and distinctively upturned, pig-like snout. The body is olive-brown with dark irregular blotches and a striking radial pattern of fine lines around the eyes — cryptic camouflage that renders the fish nearly invisible against a sandy substrate.
Unlike the more active and personable dwarf puffer, the arrowhead is a specialised ambush predator. It spends the majority of its life buried in sand with only its upturned eyes and the tip of its snout breaking the surface, waiting patiently for prey to swim overhead. That hunting strategy makes it one of the most behaviourally compelling fish in the freshwater hobby — but also one of the most demanding to keep correctly. This is firmly an expert-level species, not a starter puffer.
Where do Arrowhead Puffers come from?
Pao suvattii is native to the large river systems of mainland Southeast Asia: the Mekong and its tributaries running through Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia, and the Chao Phraya basin of central Thailand. In these rivers it occupies shallow to mid-depth sandy stretches with moderate current, where the riverbed consists of fine silty sand interspersed with smooth rocks and submerged wood.
Water in these rivers is warm and moderately soft, with pH values between roughly 6.7 and 7.7 and hardness in the 5–15 dGH range. Understanding this origin is the starting point for good husbandry: the arrowhead puffer has not been selectively bred for captivity in the way that bettas or goldfish have. The fish you buy is effectively a wild type, with exacting habitat requirements to match.
What tank size and setup does an Arrowhead Puffer need?
The minimum tank size for a single arrowhead puffer is 132 L (35 gal). A longer footprint — something in the region of 100 cm (40 in) in length — is strongly preferred over height, because this is a bottom-dwelling ambush hunter that has no interest in vertical swimming space.
The single most important design decision is the substrate. Provide at least 5 cm (2 in) of fine, soft sand — play sand or pool-filter sand both work. Coarse gravel will stress and injure the fish over time as it tries to bury. Leave large open sandy areas for burying alongside a modest scattering of smooth river rocks and pieces of driftwood, which provide visual breaks and resting points. Avoid sharp decor.
Filtration should be capable and dependable. An external canister filter that turns the tank volume over four to six times per hour keeps nitrates in check without creating a strong current the fish dislikes. Keep the outlet directed along the back glass rather than blasting across open water. A tight-fitting lid is recommended — puffers are capable of squeezing through small gaps and are surprisingly strong jumpers when startled.
This is a species-only tank. Do not attempt to add any tank-mates. The arrowhead puffer will ambush, bite, and consume almost anything it can fit in its mouth, and its powerful beak can inflict serious wounds on larger fish it cannot swallow.
What water parameters does an Arrowhead Puffer need?
- Temperature: 23–28 °C (73–82 °F). A stable heater is essential; avoid temperatures below 22 °C.
- pH: 6.7–7.7. Neutral to very slightly acidic is the comfortable middle ground.
- Hardness: 5–15 dGH — soft to moderately hard.
The arrowhead puffer is highly sensitive to poor water quality. Nitrates should be kept below 20 ppm where possible; readings above 40 ppm reliably cause gill irritation, appetite loss, and increased susceptibility to infection. Cycle the tank fully before introducing the fish, perform weekly water changes of 25–30%, and do not overstock the filtration by adding tank-mates that add to the biological load. Stability matters as much as hitting the ideal numbers — avoid rapid swings in temperature or pH.
What does an Arrowhead Puffer eat?
The arrowhead puffer is a strict carnivore and an ambush predator by instinct. In the wild it takes invertebrates, small fish, and crustaceans that pass over its buried body. In the aquarium, the mainstay of its diet should be hard-shelled invertebrates that help wear down its continuously growing beak-like teeth: unshelled snails, small clams, and mussels on the half-shell are excellent staples.
Supplement with earthworms, whole prawns or shrimp (shell on), cockles, and occasionally strips of fresh fish or squid. Frozen bloodworms and krill can serve as variety items. Live foods trigger the predatory response strongly and are useful for conditioning or encouraging a newly acquired specimen that is refusing prepared items.
Feed every one to two days — arrowhead puffers are ambush hunters with a lower metabolic rate than more active fish and do not need daily feeding. Overfeeding causes water quality problems quickly. If the fish is consistently refusing food, first check water parameters before assuming a feeding-preference issue.
Beak maintenance is critical. Without hard-shelled prey to gnaw on, the teeth overgrow and the fish cannot feed. Make snails a permanent part of the diet, not an occasional treat.
How aggressive is the Arrowhead Puffer — and what can it live with?
The arrowhead puffer is rated aggressive and should be considered one of the most predatory freshwater puffers available in the hobby. It is not merely nippy or territorial in the way some semi-aggressive fish are — it is a hunting machine that will stalk, ambush, and consume any animal it registers as prey. Small fish, shrimp, and snails will be eaten. Even larger fish are at risk of being bitten, losing fins, or sustaining eye injuries from the puffer’s sharp beak.
The only practical answer for stocking is solo in a species tank. Some experienced keepers have attempted to house an arrowhead puffer with larger, fast-moving species in very large tanks, but this carries real risk and is not recommended for most aquarists.
For a full breakdown of what the data says about pairings, see Arrowhead Puffer tank mates.
How do you tell male from female Arrowhead Puffers?
Sexual dimorphism in Pao suvattii is difficult to determine externally, and reliable sexing is generally not possible outside of a breeding context. Males are typically slightly slimmer in the body when viewed from above, while females may appear noticeably fuller or rounded in the belly when gravid. Beyond that, no reliable colour, fin, or marking differences between the sexes have been documented in the aquarium literature.
Because arrowhead puffers must be housed singly or in very carefully managed situations, sexing is of limited practical importance for most keepers. Breeding attempts would require identifying and carefully pairing individuals — which demands patience and close observation over time.
How do Arrowhead Puffers breed?
Captive breeding of Pao suvattii is rated very hard and has been achieved only rarely by specialist keepers. In the wild these fish are thought to spawn in rivers during the wet season, but the precise triggers and spawning behaviour have not been thoroughly documented in captivity.
Any breeding attempt requires a dedicated tank with a deep sand bed, excellent water quality, and a compatible pair — itself a difficult achievement given the species’ aggression. Water parameter changes mimicking the onset of the rainy season (slightly cooler water, increased flow) may serve as conditioning triggers. Fry, if produced, would likely require very small live foods such as micro-worms or newly hatched brine shrimp from the outset. This is a project for experienced puffer specialists rather than a casual breeding goal.
What diseases are common in Arrowhead Puffers?
The arrowhead puffer shares the disease susceptibilities of other scaleless fish, being particularly vulnerable to ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), external parasites, and bacterial or fungal infections driven by poor water quality. Because puffers lack true scales, many standard medications can be tolerated only at reduced doses — always check compatibility with scaleless species before treating.
Practical prevention covers the vast majority of health problems:
- Maintain nitrates below 20 ppm through regular water changes.
- Quarantine the fish for four to six weeks before adding to a display tank.
- Source specimens from reputable suppliers; wild-caught individuals may carry internal parasites.
- Ensure hard-shelled foods are always available to prevent overgrown teeth, which cause starvation.
- Remove uneaten food promptly to avoid ammonia spikes.
Health note: medication dosing and disease diagnosis are beyond the scope of a care profile. For a sick fish, confirm symptoms against a reputable veterinary or fish-health source and seek advice from a qualified aquatic vet or specialist forum before medicating a scaleless species.
How long does an Arrowhead Puffer live?
A well-kept Pao suvattii can live 5–10 years in captivity. Achieving the upper end of that range requires consistently excellent water quality, a varied diet with adequate hard-shelled prey for beak maintenance, and a properly set up sand-substrate species tank. Many specimens fail to reach their potential lifespan due to water quality neglect, overgrown teeth from inappropriate diets, or stress caused by incompatible tank-mates or an unsuitable environment. Get the fundamentals right — clean water, deep sand, and live or hard-shelled prey — and this is a long-lived and rewarding specialist fish.
Frequently asked questions
Can the arrowhead puffer live with other fish?
Almost never — it is among the most predatory freshwater puffers and should be kept alone in a species tank. Any tank-mate, even large fish, risks being bitten or eaten. A single specimen in its own well-decorated tank is the safest and most rewarding approach.
Why does my arrowhead puffer bury itself in the sand?
This is completely natural behaviour. In the wild Pao suvattii is a sit-and-wait predator that buries in sandy riverbeds with only its eyes exposed, waiting to ambush prey that passes overhead. Provide a deep layer of fine sand (5 cm or more) and do not be alarmed when the fish disappears — it is simply hunting.
What you need to keep a arrowhead puffer
The baseline is a heated, filtered 132 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 23–28 °C (73–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a arrowhead puffer in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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