Photo: No machine-readable author provided. RicciSpeziari~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). (CC BY-SA 3.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus)
A strikingly colour-variable Central American giant that rewards the single-species keeper with decades of bold, interactive personality.
Will it live with a Midas Cichlid?
We compare each fish against your midas cichlid on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Snowball Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 16 cm · Medium care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 24–26 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Weather Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 25 cm · Easy care · 5–24 °C (41–75 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Yellow-spotted Pleco✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 35 cm · Medium care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Aggressive + Peaceful, but with no direct clash here, and their water overlaps around 24–27 °C — no size, zone or temperament conflicts.
- Banjo Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Banjo Catfish is small enough to tempt Midas Cichlid; only risk it in a densely planted setup with hiding spots.
- Black Doras Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 60 cm · Hard care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~500 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Bristlenose Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 23–30 °C (73–86 °F)
- Midas Cichlid may bully the smaller Bristlenose Pleco, though its armour makes it a hard meal — give it caves and driftwood to retreat into.
- Clown Loach⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 30 cm · Medium care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~400 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Common Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 45 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Denison Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 18–25 °C (64–77 °F)
- Midas Cichlid clearly outsizes Denison Barb and is aggressive; risky unless the tank is big and well-planted.
- Watch for Midas Cichlid picking off any denison barb small enough to fit in its mouth.
- Keep Denison Barb in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Discus⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 20 cm · Hard care · 28–31 °C (82–88 °F)
- Water hardness preferences differ (Midas Cichlid 10–20 vs Discus 1–8 dGH).
- Midas Cichlid is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Discus — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Keep Discus in a shoal of 6+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Elephant-nose Knifefish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 35 cm · Hard care · 24–29 °C (75–84 °F)
- Water hardness preferences differ (Midas Cichlid 10–20 vs Elephant-nose Knifefish 1–8 dGH).
- Giant Betta⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- One likes softer water and the other harder (10–20 vs 1–8 dGH) — a compromise, not a perfect match.
- Midas Cichlid is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Giant Betta — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Midas Cichlid may hunt Giant Betta, fry or shrimplets — safest in a heavily planted tank.
- Giant Glass Catfish⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Midas Cichlid is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Giant Glass Catfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Giant Kuhli Loach⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Easy care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Midas Cichlid may hunt Giant Kuhli Loach, fry or shrimplets — safest in a heavily planted tank.
- Koi⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Midas Cichlid is small enough to tempt Koi; only risk it in a densely planted setup with hiding spots.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Marbled Hoplo⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Midas Cichlid may bully the smaller Marbled Hoplo, though its armour makes it a hard meal — give it caves and driftwood to retreat into.
- Mascara Barb⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 12 cm · Medium care · 20–25 °C (68–77 °F)
- Midas Cichlid is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Mascara Barb — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Midas Cichlid may hunt Mascara Barb, fry or shrimplets — safest in a heavily planted tank.
- Keep Mascara Barb in a shoal of 8+ or it gets stressed and nippy.
- Moonlight Gourami⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 25–30 °C (77–86 °F)
- Midas Cichlid clearly outsizes Moonlight Gourami and is aggressive; risky unless the tank is big and well-planted.
- Moonlight Gourami is small enough to tempt Midas Cichlid; only risk it in a densely planted setup with hiding spots.
- Sailfin Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 50 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Midas Cichlid and Alligator Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Alligator Gar (250 cm) is big enough to swallow the 35 cm Midas Cichlid whole.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Midas Cichlid and Clown Knifefish are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Clown Knifefish (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 35 cm Midas Cichlid whole.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Midas Cichlid and Fire Eel are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Fire Eel (100 cm) is big enough to swallow the 35 cm Midas Cichlid whole.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Mekong Giant Catfish⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 20–28 °C (68–82 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Midas Cichlid and Mekong Giant Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~100000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Midas Cichlid and Redtail Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (120 vs 35 cm): Redtail Catfish will treat Midas Cichlid as food.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Midas Cichlid and Spotted Gar will hold territory and clash.
- Spotted Gar (90 cm) is big enough to swallow the 35 cm Midas Cichlid whole.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Two assertive fish, one genuinely aggressive: Midas Cichlid and Wels Catfish will hold territory and clash.
- Size gap is too large (300 vs 35 cm): Wels Catfish will treat Midas Cichlid as food.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Midas Cichlid and Wolf Cichlid are both territorial and at least one is outright aggressive — expect serious fighting.
- Watch for Wolf Cichlid picking off any midas cichlid small enough to fit in its mouth.
- Your 300 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Midas Cichlid care specs
- Care level
- Hard
- Breeding
- Medium
- Max size
- 35 cm (13.8 in)
- Min tank size
- 300 L (79.3 gal)
- Temperature
- 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH
- 7–8
- Hardness
- 10–20 dGH
- Lifespan
- 10–12 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- Middle
- Group size
- Best alone or in a pair
- Family
- Cichlidae
- Origin
- Central America — Nicaragua and Costa Rica (Lakes Nicaragua, Managua and associated rivers)
What is a Midas Cichlid?
The Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus) is one of Central America’s most impressive freshwater predators, reaching up to 35 cm (14 in) in a well-run aquarium. Wild populations from Lakes Nicaragua and Managua vary enormously in colour — from near-black to brilliant gold, orange and red — a trait that carries through to captive fish and makes every individual unique. Males develop a distinctive fatty nuchal hump on the forehead that becomes more pronounced with age and breeding condition. Robust, long-lived (10–12 years) and highly interactive with their keeper, Midas Cichlids are a serious commitment that pays off richly for experienced hobbyists prepared to provide a species-appropriate setup.
Where do Midas Cichlids come from?
Wild Midas Cichlids are native to Nicaragua and Costa Rica, primarily inhabiting Lakes Nicaragua and Managua and the rivers connecting them. They occupy rocky shoreline zones and deep littoral areas, feeding opportunistically on molluscs, invertebrates, algae and smaller fish. This hard-water, mineral-rich environment shapes their aquarium requirements: they thrive in moderately hard, neutral-to-alkaline water and are noticeably less healthy in soft or acidic tanks. Captive-bred specimens are widely available and are generally hardier than wild-caught fish, though their chemistry preferences remain the same.
What size tank does a Midas Cichlid need?
Midas Cichlids require a minimum 300 litres (80 US gallons) for a single adult; a bonded pair benefits from 450 L (120 gal) or more. Use a bare-bottom or coarse sand substrate — these fish dig vigorously — and provide a few large, stable cave structures (rocks, ceramic tunnels) for territory and spawning. Robust filtration capable of handling the heavy bioload is essential; target turnover of 8–10× the tank volume per hour and supplement with weekly 30–40 % water changes. Avoid live plants, which will be uprooted immediately. Décor should be heavy enough not to be moved and securely braced to avoid crushing injuries.
What water parameters do Midas Cichlids need?
- Temperature: 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- pH: 7.0–8.0 — neutral to slightly alkaline matches their native lake chemistry.
- Hardness: 10–20 dGH — moderately hard; avoid soft or acidic conditions.
Stability matters as much as hitting precise targets. Large weekly water changes with dechlorinated tap water (if your supply is moderately hard) suit these fish well and are simpler than trying to buffer RO water.
What do Midas Cichlids eat?
Midas Cichlids are omnivores with a strong carnivorous lean. A quality large-pellet cichlid staple forms the backbone of their diet. Supplement with raw or frozen meaty foods — prawns, mussels, earthworms, whole krill — several times per week. Carotenoid-rich foods (krill, spirulina pellets, colour-enhancing cichlid pellets) help intensify the orange and red colour morphs. Feed once or twice daily and remove uneaten food promptly. Avoid mammalian meats (beef heart, chicken) which can cause fat deposits around organs; feeder fish carry disease risk and are best avoided.
Are Midas Cichlids aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
Make no mistake: the Midas Cichlid is one of the most aggressive fish in the hobby. Adults are relentlessly territorial and will harass, bully and often kill tank-mates — including other large cichlids — especially once they pair off and spawn. For the great majority of keepers the right answer is a single specimen or a proven bonded pair in a species-only tank. There is no community-fish arrangement that is reliably safe.
If you are determined to attempt tank-mates, it demands a very large tank (500 L+), robust similarly-sized Central American cichlids (other Amphilophus, large Vieja or a Parachromis), plenty of broken sight-lines, and a backup plan to remove fish that get singled out. Even then, expect casualties and be ready to separate at the first sign of sustained persecution. Never house a Midas with small, slow or long-finned fish — they will be treated as food or as targets. The tank-mate checker on this page flags these clashes before you buy.
How do you tell male and female Midas Cichlids apart?
Sexing becomes straightforward with maturity. Males grow noticeably larger and develop a pronounced fatty nuchal hump on the forehead — the bulldog profile shared with the related “red devil” — which swells further in breeding condition. Females stay smaller and rounder-bodied, with a much smaller hump or none at all. During spawning the genital papilla offers a reliable check: the female’s ovipositor is broad and blunt, the male’s narrower and pointed. Juveniles are very hard to sex with confidence — the size and hump differences only become obvious as the fish approach adulthood at two to three years.
How do Midas Cichlids breed?
Breeding is rated Medium in difficulty: Midas Cichlids spawn willingly once a compatible pair forms, but sourcing or establishing a bonded pair can be challenging given their aggression. Introduce potential mates at a young age in a large tank and watch carefully for sustained persecution. A compatible pair will clean a flat rock or cave surface and spawn repeatedly, producing 500–2,000 eggs per clutch. Both parents guard the eggs and wriggler stages vigorously — tank-mates, including the keeper’s hands, are at risk during this period. Eggs hatch in 2–3 days and fry become free-swimming around day 7. Raise fry on baby brine shrimp and crushed cichlid fry food; growth is rapid.
What are common Midas Cichlid diseases?
Midas Cichlids are hardy when well kept, but their size and appetite make a few problems common. Hole-in-the-head disease (HLLE) — pitting and pale lesions on the head and along the lateral line — is the classic large-cichlid complaint, linked to poor water quality, an over-rich or vitamin-poor diet, and sometimes long-term use of activated carbon. Prevention is the cure: pristine water, big regular water changes and a varied diet. Bloat and constipation follow from too much rich, meaty food, so include some vegetable matter and avoid mammalian meats. Standard threats like ich (white spot) appear after chilling or stress and respond to a slow temperature rise and proper treatment. With a fish this robust, the single best medicine is stable, clean water and a sensible diet — get those right and disease is rare.
How long do Midas Cichlids live?
A healthy Midas Cichlid lives 10–12 years, and well-kept individuals not infrequently pass 15. That longevity is central to the commitment: you are taking on a large, messy, intensely territorial fish for well over a decade, and it will need the same big, heavily filtered, species-appropriate tank from the day you buy it. Plan the full setup — and the long-term space — before bringing one home, and in return a Midas rewards you with a genuinely interactive, almost dog-like personality for many years.
Frequently asked questions
Can a Midas Cichlid be kept with other fish?
Rarely with success. Adults are intensely territorial and will harass or kill most tank-mates. The safest approach is a single specimen or a proven bonded pair in a species-only tank. Any community attempt requires a very large tank (500 L+), robust similarly-sized cichlids, and careful monitoring.
Why is my Midas Cichlid changing colour?
Colour in Amphilophus citrinellus is genetically variable and continues to intensify with age. Many juveniles start dull grey or dark and gradually shift toward gold, orange or red as they mature — a process that can take 1–2 years. Stress, breeding condition and diet (especially carotenoid-rich foods) all influence how vivid the final colour becomes.
What you need to keep a midas cichlid
The baseline is a heated, filtered 300 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 24–28 °C (75–82 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a midas cichlid in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases — buying through these links costs you nothing extra.
