Photo: Ks.mini (CC BY-SA 3.0) — via Wikimedia Commons
Goldfish (Carassius auratus)
Not a bowl fish at all — a large, long-lived, cold-water cyprinid that needs serious space and filtration to do well.
Will it live with a Goldfish?
We compare each fish against your goldfish on temperament, size, water parameters and swimming zone. Set your tank size and filter the results.
- Giant Glass Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Medium care · 22–27 °C (72–81 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Marbled Hoplo✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 14 cm · Easy care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Compatible on the things that matter: shared water near 22–22 °C, workable temperaments, and no predator-and-prey size gap.
- Spotted Talking Catfish✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 15 cm · Easy care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Weather Loach✅ CompatiblePeaceful · 25 cm · Easy care · 5–24 °C (41–75 °F)
- Both are peaceful; temperature, pH and hardness ranges all overlap and neither outsizes the other enough to be a threat.
- Blackcheek Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 25 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Common Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 45 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Galaxy Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 25 cm · Medium care · 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~170 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Golden Sailfin Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 45 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Golden Sailfin Pleco is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~300 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Imperial Flower Loach⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 50 cm · Hard care · 15–22 °C (59–72 °F)
- Imperial Flower Loach clearly outsizes Goldfish and is semi-aggressive; risky unless the tank is big and well-planted.
- Imperial Flower Loach may hunt Goldfish, fry or shrimplets — safest in a heavily planted tank.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Kissing Gourami⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 30 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Kissing Gourami is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~280 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Mayan Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 28 cm · Medium care · 20–30 °C (68–86 °F)
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Orinoco Sailfin Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 50 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Orinoco Sailfin Pleco is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~450 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Peacock Eel⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 30 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Peacock Eel is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Pearl Cichlid⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 28 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Pearlscale Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 30 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Expect Pearlscale Cichlid to harass Goldfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~280 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Sailfin Pleco⚠️ With cautionPeaceful · 50 cm · Medium care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Knifefish⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 45 cm · Hard care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Spotted Knifefish is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Pleco⚠️ With cautionSemi-aggressive · 30 cm · Easy care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Spotted Pleco is semi-aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~200 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Texas Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 33 cm · Medium care · 20–26 °C (68–79 °F)
- Expect Texas Cichlid to harass Goldfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~300 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- True Red Terror Cichlid⚠️ With cautionAggressive · 35 cm · Hard care · 22–28 °C (72–82 °F)
- Expect True Red Terror Cichlid to harass Goldfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~570 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Alligator Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 250 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Temperature needs don't overlap (Goldfish 18–22 °C vs Alligator Gar 24–28 °C).
- Size gap is too large (250 vs 30 cm): Alligator Gar will treat Goldfish as food.
- Expect Alligator Gar to harass Goldfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~3785 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Clown Knifefish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Temperature needs don't overlap (Goldfish 18–22 °C vs Clown Knifefish 24–28 °C).
- Goldfish is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory clown knifefish — it will be eaten.
- Clown Knifefish clearly outsizes Goldfish and is aggressive; risky unless the tank is big and well-planted.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~750 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Fire Eel⛔ Not recommendedSemi-aggressive · 100 cm · Medium care · 24–28 °C (75–82 °F)
- Temperature needs don't overlap (Goldfish 18–22 °C vs Fire Eel 24–28 °C).
- Size gap is too large (100 vs 30 cm): Fire Eel will treat Goldfish as food.
- Expect Fire Eel to harass Goldfish at times; give dense cover and watch them at feeding.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~380 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Koi⛔ Not recommendedPeaceful · 90 cm · Medium care · 4–28 °C (39–82 °F)
- Size gap is too large (90 vs 30 cm): Koi will treat Goldfish as food.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~3800 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Redtail Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 120 cm · Hard care · 24–27 °C (75–81 °F)
- Temperature needs don't overlap (Goldfish 18–22 °C vs Redtail Catfish 24–27 °C).
- Redtail Catfish (120 cm) is big enough to swallow the 30 cm Goldfish whole.
- Redtail Catfish is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~5700 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Spotted Gar⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 90 cm · Hard care · 18–26 °C (64–79 °F)
- Goldfish is bite-sized to a 90 cm predatory spotted gar — it will be eaten.
- Spotted Gar is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~600 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wels Catfish⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 300 cm · Hard care · 15–25 °C (59–77 °F)
- Wels Catfish (300 cm) is big enough to swallow the 30 cm Goldfish whole.
- Wels Catfish clearly outsizes Goldfish and is aggressive; risky unless the tank is big and well-planted.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~20000 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
- Wolf Cichlid⛔ Not recommendedAggressive · 72 cm · Hard care · 24–30 °C (75–86 °F)
- Temperature needs don't overlap (Goldfish 18–22 °C vs Wolf Cichlid 24–30 °C).
- Wolf Cichlid is aggressive and may chase or nip the smaller Goldfish — plant heavily and break up sight lines.
- Goldfish is small enough to tempt Wolf Cichlid; only risk it in a densely planted setup with hiding spots.
- Your 150 L tank is below the ~760 L this pairing really wants — crowding raises aggression.
Compatibility is computed from each species' care data — a strong starting point, not a guarantee. Individual temperament varies, so always introduce new fish slowly and watch them.
Goldfish care specs
- Care level
- Medium
- Breeding
- Medium
- Max size
- 30 cm (11.8 in)
- Min tank size
- 150 L (39.6 gal)
- Temperature
- 18–22 °C (64–72 °F)
- pH
- 6.5–8
- Hardness
- 5–19 dGH
- Lifespan
- 10–15 years
- Diet
- Omnivore
- Swim level
- All
- Group size
- 2+ (shoaling)
- Family
- Cyprinidae
- Origin
- East Asia — domesticated over centuries from wild Prussian carp
What is a goldfish?
The goldfish (Carassius auratus) is one of humanity’s oldest domesticated animals, with selective breeding stretching back over a thousand years in East Asia. Despite that long relationship with people, goldfish are chronically misunderstood: they are not a starter fish for a bowl or a carnival prize with a short shelf life. They are large, robust, cold-water cyprinids that routinely live 10–15 years, grow to 30 cm (12 in) and produce impressive quantities of waste. Give them the right setup and they reward you with decades of personality; cut corners and you will be fighting ammonia spikes and disease from day one.
The family spans a wide range of forms — from the torpedo-bodied common goldfish to the twin-tailed, globe-eyed fancy varieties like orandas, ranchus and telescope-eyes. Each form has the same core biology, though fancy varieties with compressed body shapes are generally more delicate and less suited to life with faster, leaner fish.
Where do goldfish come from?
Goldfish originate in East Asia, descended from wild Prussian carp (Carassius gibelio) that were selectively bred in China for colour mutations, probably during the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE). They reached Japan by the 1500s and Europe by the 1600s. The wild ancestor lives in slow-moving, temperate rivers, lakes and ponds across China and Central Asia — environments that are cool, moderately hard, neutral to slightly alkaline, and rich in plant and invertebrate food. That natural history is why goldfish prefer cool, well-oxygenated water and do not belong in a tropical community tank.
What size tank does a goldfish need?
The honest minimum for a single fancy goldfish is 150 L (40 gal), and that figure climbs quickly when you add a second fish — which you should, as goldfish are social and do best kept in a pair or small group. Common (single-tail) goldfish grow even larger and should be considered pond fish once they reach adult size; a pair of commons in an indoor tank needs at least 300 L (80 gal) to stay comfortable long-term.
Tank shape matters: goldfish use all levels of the water column, so a long, wide tank gives more swimming room than a tall, narrow column of the same volume. Avoid very deep tanks that limit surface gas exchange. A secure lid is sensible — goldfish are not jumpers by nature but an uncovered tank loses water fast through evaporation and the occasional enthusiastic splash.
Filtration is the most important piece of equipment you own for goldfish. They are among the heaviest waste producers of any common aquarium fish; a filter rated for at least twice the tank volume per hour is a practical starting point. Canister filters and sponge-filter combinations are popular choices.
What water parameters do goldfish need?
- Temperature: 18–22 °C (64–72 °F) — no heater required in most temperate homes, but avoid rooms that swing to extremes.
- pH: 6.5–8.0; they are flexible, but stability matters more than hitting a precise number.
- Hardness: 5–19 dGH — a moderate, slightly hard water suits them well.
Goldfish are tolerant of a broad range, but they are not tolerant of ammonia or nitrite. Cycle the tank completely before adding fish, keep nitrates below 40 ppm with weekly water changes of 25–30%, and test regularly. Cold water holds dissolved oxygen better than warm water, which is one reason good surface agitation and a well-sized filter matter so much — at 22 °C the margin is already tighter than it looks.
What do goldfish eat?
Goldfish are omnivores with large appetites and no meaningful “off” switch — they will beg continuously and eat almost anything offered. A varied diet keeps them healthy: quality sinking or slow-sinking goldfish pellets as the staple, supplemented with blanched vegetables (peas, spinach, courgette), gel food, bloodworms, daphnia and brine shrimp. Daphnia in particular is excellent for gut motility, which matters for fancy varieties prone to swim-bladder issues.
Feed small amounts two to three times a day and remove uneaten food after a few minutes. Avoid floating flake food if your fish are prone to gulping air at the surface — that habit contributes to buoyancy problems in round-bodied fancies. A one-day weekly fast is good practice.
Are goldfish aggressive — and what fish can live with them?
Goldfish have a peaceful temperament and pose no deliberate threat to fish they cannot fit in their mouths. The practical compatibility problems are indirect: they prefer cold water (18–22 °C) that most tropical species cannot tolerate; they grow large enough to accidentally or opportunistically swallow small fish and shrimp; and their heavy waste load means their tank-mates need to handle elevated nitrate levels.
The safest tank-mates are other goldfish of similar size and body type. If you want a mixed community, stick to cool-water species — weather loach (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus), white cloud mountain minnows, dojo loach and hillstream loaches are reasonable companions that share the temperature preference. Avoid fin-nipping species (tiger barbs, serpae tetras) because fancy goldfish with long flowing fins are an irresistible target.
For a detailed, filterable breakdown of what works — and what definitely does not — see Goldfish tank mates.
How do you tell male and female goldfish apart?
Sexual dimorphism in goldfish is subtle outside of breeding condition. The most reliable indicator is the appearance of breeding tubercles on mature males: small, white, raised bumps (sometimes called “breeding stars”) that develop on the gill covers and the leading rays of the pectoral fins when water temperatures rise in spring or following a seasonal temperature change.
Females in spawning condition become noticeably rounder and heavier in the abdomen as they fill with eggs — a well-fed female can look almost lopsided compared to a slim male. Outside of breeding season, body shape and fin shape offer clues in some varieties, but are not definitive. Vent morphology (a slightly more protruding, rounder vent in females) is a secondary indicator experienced keepers use when fish are out of breeding condition.
How do goldfish breed?
Goldfish are egg scatterers and breed readily in spring when water temperatures begin to rise. The male chases the female persistently and nudges her flanks to stimulate egg release; spawning often happens early in the morning and can last several hours. Eggs are adhesive and scatter among plants and fine substrate.
Triggering spawning deliberately requires simulating seasonal change: lower the water temperature gradually through winter and allow it to rise in spring, which prompts conditioning. Feed the pair high-protein foods in the weeks before expected spawning. A breeding tank with fine-leaved plants or spawning mops gives the eggs somewhere to land away from the parents, which will eat them given the chance.
Fry hatch in 4–7 days depending on temperature and are initially very small. They need infusoria or commercial fry food for the first week, then finely crushed flake or baby brine shrimp. Raising a clutch is manageable but requires daily attention to water quality in the fry tank.
What are common goldfish diseases?
Goldfish are hardy but susceptible to a predictable set of problems, most of which trace back to water quality or diet.
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) presents as white salt-grain spots and is almost always triggered by a sudden temperature drop or the stress of new fish introductions. Fin rot causes ragged, receding fin edges and is a bacterial secondary infection driven by poor water quality. Swim-bladder disorder — causing the fish to float sideways or struggle to stay upright — is common in round-bodied fancy varieties and is often linked to gulping air while surface-feeding, overfeeding, or constipation; fasting and offering blanched skinned peas can help mild cases.
Columnaris (a bacterial infection showing as white or grey patches on the body or mouth) and fungal infections (cotton-like growths) follow the same root cause: compromised immune function from chronically poor water. Velvet (Oodinium) occasionally affects goldfish and shows as a gold or rust-coloured dusty sheen.
Prevention is straightforward: maintain excellent water quality, quarantine all new fish for at least two weeks before adding them to the main tank, and avoid sudden temperature swings.
Health note: the list above describes symptoms and causes, not treatment protocols. For a sick fish, confirm your diagnosis against a reputable veterinary or fishkeeping-health source before choosing any medication.
How long do goldfish live?
A well-cared-for goldfish lives 10–15 years, and exceptional specimens kept in large ponds have been documented past 20 years. The gap between a goldfish that dies in two years and one that reaches fifteen is almost entirely a function of setup: appropriate tank size, strong filtration, regular water changes and a sensible diet. The bowl and the carnival tank are where goldfish lifespans collapse — not because the animal is inherently fragile, but because those environments cannot support the basic water quality the fish requires. Invest in the right tank from the start and goldfish become one of the most rewarding long-term fish in the hobby.
Frequently asked questions
Can goldfish live with tropical fish like bettas?
No. Goldfish are cold-water fish that want 18–22 °C, while bettas and most community fish are tropical (24–28 °C). Their temperature needs don't overlap, and adult goldfish are big enough to eat small tank-mates.
How big do goldfish really get?
Far bigger than people expect — common goldfish reach 30 cm (12 in) or more and live well over a decade, which is why they need a large, heavily filtered tank or pond, never a bowl.
What you need to keep a goldfish
The baseline is a heated, filtered 150 L+ tank: a reliable heater to hold 18–22 °C (64–72 °F), a gentle filter that won't batter a goldfish in the current, and a tight-fitting lid. Cycle the tank fully before adding any fish.
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